.„CAMBRIDGE COUNTY GEOGRAPHIES 



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CAMBRIDGE COUNTY GEOGRAPHIES 

SCOTLAND 

General Editor: W. Murison, M.A. 



EAST LOTHIAN 



CAMBRIDGE UNIVERSITY PRESS 

C. F. CLAY, Manager 

ILontion: FETTER LANE, E.G. 

lEtimburgf) : loo PRINCES STREET 



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^z\a Jgori;: G. P. PUTNAM'S SONS 

IBcimbaj), ffalrtitta anti iHaKras: MACMILLAN AND CO., Ltd. 

^Toronto: J. M. DENT AND SONS, Ltd. 

SCofego: THE MARUZEN-KABUSHIKI-KAISHA 



All rights reserved 



Cambridge County Geographies 

EAST LOTHIAN 



by 



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-tf- ^ 



T. S." MUIR, M.A., F.R.S.G.S. 

Geography Master, Royal High School, Edinburgh 
Author of Edinburgh and District, and Linlithgoivshire 



With Maps, Diagrams and lUustrarions 



Cambridge : 

at the University Press 

1915 






Cambritige: 

PRINTED BY JOHN CLAY, M.A. 
AT THE UNIVERSITY PRESS 



^ ^ n ^ b" 



CONTENTS 



1. County and Shire. The Origin of Haddingtonshire 

or East Lothian ...... 

2. General Characteristics. Position and Natural Con 

ditions ........ 

3. Size. Shape. Boundaries .... 

4. Surface and General Features .... 

5. Rivers and Lakes ...... 

6. Geology ........ 

7. Natural History . . . . . . 

8. Along the Coast . . . . . 

9. Raised Beaches. Coastal Gains and Losses 

10. Climate ........ 

11. People — Race, Dialect, Population . 

12. Agriculture. Main Cultivations, Stock, Woodlands 

13. Industries and Manufactures .... 

14. Mines and Minerals ..... 

15. Fisheries. Shipping and Trade 

16. History of the County ..... 



5 
9 
13 
19 
31 
36 

43 
46 

52 
57 
61 
64 
68 

71 



VI 



CONTENTS 



PAGE 

17. Antiquities . . , . . . . -78 

18. Architecture — (a) Ecclesiastical . . . .83 

19. Architecture — (b) Military ..... 89 

20. Architecture — (<:) Domestic and Municipal . . 94 

21. Communications — Roads and Railways . . -97 

22. Administration and Divisions . . . . .100 

23. Roll of Honour . . . . . . .102 

24. The Chief Towns and Villages of East Lothian . 109 



ILLUSTRATIONS 



The Bass Rock ..... 

Where the Lammer miiirs reacli the sea 
North Berwick Law 
Old Bridge and Linn, East Linton . 
Biel House ..... 

Pressmennan Loch . . 

Dunbar Castle Rocks 

Ejected Blocks and Platform of Marine Denudation 

North Berwick 
Aikengall Valley .... 

Sea Birds on the Bass Rock . 

Solan Goose on the Bass Rock 

Port Seton Harbour 

Fishing Fleet, Aberlady . 

Golf Links, North Berwick 

Fidra Island ..... 

Binning Woods .... 

Haddington, from the West . 
Cockenzie Harbour .... 

Dunbar Harbour .... 

Lord Belhaven .... 

Piece of Pottery from midden at North Berwick 
Stone Cist at Nunraw opened and emptied 
Traprain Law ....... 

Tynninghame Church ..... 

Haddington Church ..... 



PAGE 

4 

7 

12 

14 
i6 
•I 8 

25 
26 

29 

35 
35 
38 
39 

41 
45 
60 

63 
66 
69 

77 
79 
80 
82 
84 
86 



Vlll 



ILLUSTRATIONS 



St Mary's Church, Whitekirk 
The Goblin Hall, Yester 
Tantallon Castle .... 
King Charles's room, Winton House (Bi 

of Scotland) ...... 

N ungate Bridge . . . . 

Sir David Baird ...... 

John Knox (Beza, Icones 1580) 

Jane Welsh Carlyle (from the portrait by Samuel La 

in the National Portrait Gallery, London) . 
Public School, Tranent ..... 
Whittinghame House ..... 
Diagrams . . . . . . 



s, Antiquities 



90 
93 

95 

99 

103 

105 

107 
III 



MAPS 

Orographical Map of East Lothian 
Geological Map of East Lothian 
Rainfall Map of Scotland 
Place names of East Lothian . 
Plan of the Battle of Dunbar, 1650 



. Front Co'ver 

. Back Co'ver 

50 

bet'zveen pp. S^ '^^'^ 53 

75 



Note. — Thanks are due to H.M. Geological Survey of 
Scotland for the illustrations on pp. 26 and 29 ; to the Society of 
Antiquaries of Scotland for those on pp. 79 and 80 ; to James 
Curie, Esq., W.S., for that on p. 82 ; to the Earl of Haddington 
for indicating the source of that on p. 84 and to Mr J. Spence, 
Musselburgh, for the photograph ; to Messrs G. P. Putnam's for 
permission to reproduce the portrait on p. 105 from Cowan's John 
Knox ; and to Mr Charles E. Green for permission to reproduce 
those on pp. 77 and 90 from his East Lothian. 

The illustrations on pp. 4, 7, 12, 14, 16, 18, 35, 38, 39, 41, 45, 
60, 63, 66, 69, 86, 88, 93, 99, 1 1 1, and 112 are from photographs 
by Messrs J. Valentine and Sons, Dundee. 



I. County and Shire. The Origin of 
Haddingtonshire or East Lothian. 

The word shire is of Old English origin and meant 
office, charge, administration. The Norman Conquest 
introduced the word county — through French from the 
Latin com'itatus^ which in mediaeval documents designates 
the shire. County is the district ruled by a count, the 
king's comes^ the equivalent of the older English term 
earl. This system of local administration entered Scot- 
land as part of the Anglo-Norman influence that strongly 
affected our country after the year iioo. The earliest 
mention of a sheriff of Haddington is in the thirteenth 
century. Although the county boundary, except along 
the sea-board, is almost nowhere a natural one, there 
is every reason to believe that it has remained nearly 
unchanged for centuries. 

About half of the counties of Scotland are named 
after the county town. Officially, i.e. in census and other 
government returns, our county appears as Haddington- 
shire ; but its colloquial designation is East Lothian. 
The origin of the name Haddington is unknown. The 
earliest spellings are Hadynton (1098), and Hadintune, 
Hadingtoun, in the twelfth century. It is obviously 

M. E. L. I 



2 EAST LOTHIAN 

English, and most probably derived from the founder. 
The origin of the word Lothian is less obscure. Bede 
has Regto Loidis^ i.e. the same as Leeds. In the Pictish 
Chronicle, year 970, it appears as Loon'ia ; a century later 
in the Old English Chronicle, it is Lothene. In the 
Welsh Pedigrees of the Saints is mentioned a prince 
Leudun Luydawc from the fortress of Eidyn in the 
North, and the district round Eidyn is named Lleud- 
diniawn, which, according to the late Sir E. Anwyl, 
is like a Welsh derivative of Laudinus. This prince 
Leudun or Lleuddin is the same whom Sir Thomas 
Malory calls King Lot. As a territory Lothian originally 
included all the country to the east of Strathclyde between 
the rivers Forth and Tweed. 



2. General Characteristics. Position 
and Natural Conditions. 

East Lothian unites in itself two of the three physi- 
cal divisions of Scotland — ^the Central Plain, and the 
Southern Uplands. It is also a maritime county, pre- 
senting one side to the Firth of Forth, another to the 
North Sea. Though the scenery has nowhere preten- 
sions to grandeur, yet the coast at Dunbar is bold and 
picturesque, the Lammermuirs are characterised by 
massiveness and sweeping curves, while between is the 
somewhat monotonous but rich and fertile plain, the 
garden of Scotland. When the traveller from England 
by the East Coast Route, after descending to Cockburns- 



GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS 3 

path, enters East Lothian, and is whirled past Dunbar, 
East Linton, and Prestonpans, even the most cursory 
glance shows him that here is the home of high farming. 
The huge fields, trim hedges and fences, the rarity of 
woods, of uncared-for pieces of ground^ and of open 
drains, are ample evidence that the soil is too valuable to 
permit of any waste. 

Down by the sea are dotted little towns and villages, 
in some cases continuous, in others separated by wide 
stretches of sandy links. Most of the male inhabitants 
are engaged in fishing, though in the west round Preston- 
pans the coal mines claim their servants. The golf- 
courses of the north-east are second in fame only to that 
of St Andrews. The burghers of trim North Berwick 
are as used to visitors of royal and exalted blood as are 
the citizens of the most favoured of capitals. During the 
summer months North Berwick and its neio;hbours are 
mere suburbs of Edinburgh. 

Through the heart of the county meanders the Tyne, 
famed as a trouting stream. It is emphatically the river 
of East Lothian, and on its banks and on those of its 
upland tributaries are many spots celebrated in history 
and tradition. Ordinarily a placid stream, the sudden 
melting of the snows or a " cloud-burst " in the Lammer- 
muirs now and again causes a flood by which the old 
folks keep their calendar. 

To the south of the Tyne the land slopes gently 
upwards. On the way, however, one comes to sudden 
and unexpected descents and ascents. These are valleys 
which run almost parallel instead of perpendicular to the 



4 EAST LOTHIAN 

contour lines as all proper valleys should. For their 
origin we must go back to the Great Ice Age. In them 
nestle villages and hamlets renowned for their sylvan 
beauty, each with its pretty church embosomed in trees 
and surrounded by fertile fields. Here and there are 
pleasant mansions, the successors of the peels which 




^^^^^m^mm 



The Bass Rock 

guarded the passes to the south. But a little way from 
their wooded parks begin the bare Lammermuirs. South 
of the watershed the East Lothian portion is as bleak, 
lonely, and inaccessible as the northern slopes and plains 
are fertile, populous, and frequented. 

Rising from the plain are several eminences similar in 
origin to those other rocks farther west between Edinburgh 



GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS 5 

and Dumbarton. The Garleton Hills, Traprain, and 
North Berwick Law are masses of igneous rocks which 
have withstood the levelling influences of denudation 
and thus pleasingly diversify the landscape. The Bass 
Rock, three miles out from Canty Bay, is the boldest of 
them all. 

Despite its mining and fishing, East Lothian is mainly 
an agricultural county. The rural population out- 
numbers the urban. No industries exist of other than 
local importance. It would seem, therefore, that its 
story should be short and featureless. Yet in agriculture 
it has been and is an example to the world ; its rocks 
have provided object-lessons and arguments to divergent 
schools of geology ; it has churches and castles of intense 
interest to the architect and the antiquarian ; some of 
Scotland's most famous sons were born within its bounds; 
and in history it yields to few districts for importance 
and romance. 



3. Size. Shape. Boundaries. 

East Lothian is twenty-fifth in order of size among 
the counties of Scotland. Only eight are smaller. The 
exact area is 170,971 acres, or, including water, 171,389 
acres — rather less than 270 square miles. It forms a 
little more than the one-hundred-and-eleventh part of 
Scotland. Midlothian is more than one-third larger. 
West Lothian is less than half the size. The shape is 
an irregular quadrilateral with two long and two short 



6 EAST LOTHIAN 

sides. The long sides face south and north-east, the 
short ones face north and west. On the north-east is the 
North Sea, on the north-west the Firth of Forth. The 
western boundary strikes irregularly across country from 
the Firth to the Lammermuirs. The southern boundary 
encloses practically the whole of the higher regions of 
these hills, and finally follows a burn to the sea. The 
coast, extending between Levenhall and the mouth of the 
Dunglass Burn, is 32 miles. The longest straight line 
that can be drawn in the county is one of 26 miles from 
east to west. The breadth between north and south 
along a meridian varies from 12 miles in the west to 16 
in the middle and 10 in the east. A walk along the 
boundary, including the coast and all irregularities, would 
mean a distance of about 80 miles. 

On the west is Midlothian, on the south Berwick- 
shire. Beginning at the mouth of the Dunglass Burn 
the boundary follows that stream up to the confluence of 
the Oldhamstocks Burn. Then it keeps to a tributary, 
the Berwick Burn, and, reaching a narrow plantation 
called the Dod Strip, follows it to the summit of Dod 
Hill (1147 feet). Descending to the south-west, it 
crosses the Eye, and turns sharply south-east, east, and 
south to the Monynut Water. It then runs up the 
Philip and comes down to the Whiteadder. The 
general direction is then westward. At one point 
it touches the watershed between the Dye and the 
Faseny, both tributaries of the Whiteadder, itself a tribu- 
tary of the Tweed. Here the boundary passes over the 
summit of Meikle Says Law (1750 feet), the highest of 



;^-^T-WWf^ 




8 EAST LOTHIAl!^ 

the Lammermuirs. Near Lammer Law (1733 feet), the 
highest of the Lammermuirs which is wholly in East 
Lothian, it follows for a time the water parting between 
the Tyne and the Leader, a tributary of the Tweed. At 
West Hill (1479 feet) it leaves the watershed, this time 
for the north side, and touching the Dean, the East 
Water, and the Salters Burn, strikes N.N.E. to the 
Tyne. Thence, keeping the same general direction but 
with apparently capricious deviations, it reaches the Firth 
at Levenhall, between Musselburgh and Prestonpans. 
The numerous islets off the coast, including the Bass 
Rock, form part of the county. 

From this description it will be seen that the land 
boundary is nowhere determined by geographical features. 
The simplest explanation is that there are no striking 
geographical features of sufficient importance to form 
inevitable boundaries. The Lammermuirs are no Pyre- 
nees, but a much-dissected plateau, and do not present 
anywhere a well-defined ridge. It is true also the 
higher parts are entirely given over to sheep ; and, as 
the inhabited portions of East Lothian are nearer the hills 
than are the corresponding areas in Berwickshire, it seems 
natural that Haddington should overlap the watershed. 
On the western side the boundary follows uncertainly 
the Roman Camp Ridge, an elongated dome of low 
elevation, which separates the coal-basin of Mid from 
that of East Lothian. The probability is that the 
boundary here was determined by the limits of the 
farms. 

The Commissioners under the Local Government Act 



SIZE SHAPE BOUNDARIES 9 

of 1889 made several rectifications of the boundary line. 
The parish of Fala and Soutra, previously partly in 
Midlothian and partly in Haddington, was all given to 
Midlothian. A detached portion of the parish of Humbie 
was now handed over to Soutra and to Midlothian. A 
portion of Oldhamstocks parish which had been in 
Berwickshire was transferred to East Lothian, in ex- 
change for a detached part of Oldhamstocks in Colding- 
ham. The origin of such detached portions is almost 
invariably ecclesiastical. Some feudal lord endows a 
church or an abbey with lands from his estates, which 
may be widely separated. 



4. Surface and General Features. 

Since the Lammermuirs stretch from south-west to 
north-east, the part of East Lothian north of the water- 
shed might be expected to drain to the Firth of Forth. 
The general slope is certainly from south-east to north- 
west, but the portion which actually belongs to the basin 
of the Firth is insignificant in area. This results from 
the configuration of the county, which we shall now 
proceed to examine. 

A line drawn from the south-west to the north-east 
corner of the O.S. one-inch Map, Sheet 33, coincides 
very closely with the great Lammermuir fault, which 
separates the Lowlands from the Southern Uplands of 
Scotland. This line divides the county into two very 
nearly equal parts, which, with an exception to be 
mentioned presently, are perfectly distinct. To the 



10 EAST LOTHIAN 

south of Dunbar, and, therefore, to the south of the line, 
a cross-fault, running from north-west to south-east, has 
allowed the Lowlands to encroach upon the Lammer- 
muirs, and partially to cut them off from the sea. Oddly 
enough, this usurpation is covered with rich soil, forming 
part of the famous " red lands " of Dunbar. Geographi- 
cally, then. East Lothian is partly in the Southern 
Uplands, and partly in the Central Valley of Scotland. 

The Lammermuir Hills are the north-eastern portion 
of that plateau of ancient rocks which extends across 
Scotland from Wigtownshire to St Abbs Head. That it 
is a plateau, although much denuded and dissected, will be 
realised from a study of the map. Round Meikle Says 
Law is an area of more than five square miles which has 
no contour line below 1500 feet. In it are marked 
eleven summits above 1500 feet, separated from one 
another by trifling depressions. Again, the closeness of 
the contour-lines on the north-east side is evidence of steep 
slopes, but once the 1500 foot line is reached from the 
north, there is usually a long interval before one meets it 
again on the south side. A visit to the ground only 
serves to deepen the impression derived from the map. 
Lammer Law, though second in height, is the most 
conspicuous summit in the Lammermuirs, and is that 
most often ascended. Round it the denuding agencies 
have been stronger or have had softer material to work 
upon, for it stands well out both from the plateau and 
from its neighbours. 

Looking south and east from the summit one sees 
rolling hills, covered with grass and heather, empty of 



SURFACE AND GENERAL FEATURES 11 

human interest, but filled with the charms of solitude. 
Away in the distance is a blue haze which means the 
valley of the Tweed, and beyond it the dim outline of 
the pastoral Cheviots. The sun is playing hide-and-seek 
with the hills as the fleecy clouds chase each other over 
the sky, and not a sound but the bleating of sheep breaks 
the summer silence. On turning to the north one is 
struck by a violent contrast. In the immediate fore- 
ground, indeed, are steep bare slopes furrowed by sharp- 
cut deans or dells formed by the hill-streams rushing 
Tynewards. But just beyond and below is the plain of 
Lothian, enclosed with trim hedges, fences, or stone 
dykes. Here and there a mass of foliage betokens the 
park round some country mansion, but for the most part 
the country is covered with rich grass, potatoes, or 
waving corn. The numerous tall chimney-stalks do not 
indicate factories, but the threshing-mills attached to 
many of the farm buildings. North-west one sees the 
pit-head works of Tranent and Prestonpans, elsewhere 
are many villages and hamlets, but no large towns. It 
needs no more to convince one that here agriculture is 
the chief occupation. Yonder are wide stretches of 
yellow^ sand marking the positions of Aberlady Bay and 
the Tyne Estuary. But generally the eye glances 
directly from the green fields to the blue waters of the 
North Sea or the Firth of Forth. Away in the distance 
are the hills of Fife, and beyond them the serried ranks 
of the southern Highlands. 

Rising from the plain are several eminences whose 
abruptness speaks to their volcanic origin. They are 



12 



EAST LOTHIAN 



Traprain or Dunpelder (704 feet), North Berwick Law 
(612 feet), and the Garleton Hills (590 feet). Traprain 
is a dome-shaped mass on the right bank of the Tyne, 
a mile and a half south-west of East Linton. The 
Garleton Hills form part of a line of uplands on the left 
bank of the Tyne extending from near East Linton right 
to the west of the county and joining the Roman Camp 





North Berwick Law 



Ridge. On the summit is the Hopetoun Monument, a 
tall, lighthouse-like shaft, which is seen from all over the 
county. Their slope is especially steep on the Hadding- 
ton side. But the most conspicuous of all is North 
Berwick Law. It is easily the most striking feature in 
the scenery of East Lothian. Of pure conical shape it 
stands out 400 feet above the general level of its 



SURFACE AND GENERAL FEATURES 13 

surroundings, and has all the appearance of a miniature 
volcano. Like its neighbours, however, its existence in 
splendid isolation is due to the softer rock above and 
around having been removed by denudation. From its 
summit the view, including sea, hills, and plain, cannot 
easily be surpassed in Scotland. 

A study of the relief of the county brings out several 
interesting points in regard to roads and railways. But the 
physical features of greatest human interest are the gaps 
between the Roman Camp Ridge and the sea, and between 
Dunbar and the Lammermuirs. It is very noticeable how 
road and railway come close together at both those points. 
Their strategical importance is confirmed by battles 
fought at each — Pinkie and Prestonpans at the former, 
and the two Dunbar battles at the latter. 



5. Rivers and Lakes. 

The hydrography of East Lothian is more interesting 
than important. The Tyne is the only stream which 
can be called a river, but its fame is based upon its trout 
and salmon, its picturesqueness, and its historical asso- 
ciations, not upon its size or its economic value. The 
watercourses may be considered under four heads : {a) the 
Tyne and its tributaries ; [h) those streams which enter 
the North Sea independently of the Tyne ; (c) the burns 
flowing into the Firth of Forth ; {d) the tributaries of the 
Whiteadder and the Leader. 

[a) The Tyne, 23 miles in length, rises in Mid- 
lothian near Tynehead railway station at a height of 



14 



EAST LOTHIAN 



800 feet above sea-level, and for the first seven miles flows 
in a northerly direction. Then it crosses the boundary 
into East Lothian, about a mile above the village of 
Ormiston. A mile farther on is Winton Castle on the 
left bank, and then the Tyne separates the villages of 
East and West Pencaitland. The next important place 
is the county town, situated on a level haugh subject to 





Old Bridge and Linn, East Linton 

floods, one of the most disastrous of which occurred in 
October, 1775. Passing beneath the ruins of Hailes 
Castle, the Tyne reaches East Linton, beloved of artists. 
Here a sill of intrusive volcanic rock causes the river to 
form a cascade. The floor and sides of the miniature 
gorge are honeycombed with potholes, many containing 
at times the rounded pebbles which have excavated them. 
The fall is an obstacle to the passage of salmon, which 



RIVERS AND LAKES 15 

are frequently to be seen in autumn in the pool below, 
occasionally making attempts to leap upwards. The 
total descent is about 20 feet. Passing the parish church 
of Prestonkirk, the river flows sluggishly in great bends 
through Tynninghame estate, and across the wide Tyne 
sands to the sea. 

The numerous country seats with their well-wooded 
" policies " which line its banks combine to render the 
river highly picturesque. The magnificent timber which 
grows on these estates, the ornate pleasure-grounds, and 
the gently flowing current lend a southern aspect to the 
landscape which is somewhat foreign to the accepted idea 
of Scotland. 

Of the tributaries, none of any importance come from 
the north. Practically the whole of the Tyne water is 
derived from the Lammermuirs. Their rocks are re- 
markably impervious, consequently the rain readily runs 
off the ground, and after a heavy fall the burns are very 
quickly flooded. Two right-bank tributaries only are 
worthy of notice — the Birns and the Coalstoun Waters. 
Both show a fan-like structure of afl^luents in their upper 
courses. Their deeply cut though narrow glens form no 
mean obstacles to the roads which run parallel with the 
hills. Active though these streams have been, those 
belonging to the Whiteadder and Leader systems are 
now more active still, for the watershed is close to the 
northern edge of the Lammermuirs. It is most probable 
that the rainfall is heavier on the south than on the north 
side, giving greater strength to the Tweed tributaries. 

{h) About a dozen streams besides the Tyne enter 



]6 



EAST LOTHIAN 



the North Sea from East Lothian. The most consider- 
able are the Biel Water and the Dunglass Burn. The 
musically-sounding Papana rises on Moss Law at a height 
of 1300 feet. Papana is a curious name, but it may be 
connected with Papple, a farm which the river passes a 
mile below the village of Garvald. On entering Whit- 
tinghame it becomes the Whittinghame, and after travers- 




Biel House 



ing the grounds of Biel House, the Biel Water. The 
Biel Water reaches the sea at Belhaven Bay. The Spott 
Burn, a little south of Dunbar, is called the Broxburn 
when it enters Broxmouth Park. Its mouth is a hazard 
well-known to players on Dunbar Golf Links. Broc is 
Gaelic for " badger," and the people of the little hamlet 
outside the park walls will sometimes say they belong to 



RIVERS AND LAKES 17 

" Badgerburn." Dunglass Burn is remarkable for the 
depth of the gorge which it has cut before reaching the 
sea. The railway bridge across it is 125 feet above the 
level of the stream. All of those burns flow in well- 
wooded valleys, which contrast pleasantly with the rich 
though monotonous farm lands between them. These 
streams, in contradistinction to the Tyne tributaries, are 
gaining in extent at the expense of the eastern affluents 
of the Tweed. 

{c) The West Peffer Burn, which flows into Aberlady 
Bay, has, like its companion the East Peffer Burn, been 
straightened and "canalised." Its most interesting feature 
is its name, which is Pictish. The other burns falling 
into the Forth, such as Seton Burn, are mere rills. 

{d) Only the springs of the head waters of the 
Leader are in East Lothian ; but a considerable portion 
of the Whiteadder basin is in the county. The White- 
adder, according to local opinion, rises in the White Well 
at a little more than 1000 feet above sea-level ; but its 
" topographical " source is 200 feet higher and half-a-mile 
away on the slopes of Clints Dod. At first but a moor- 
land rill, it soon acquires volume, and has cut a deep 
valley through the Silurian strata. In several places the 
air-line distance between the thousand-foot contour is 
only half-a-mile, while to travel on foot from the one to 
the other would involve a descent and ascent respectively 
of 300 feet. The Whiteadder leaves the county a few 
hundred yards above the hamlet of Cranshaws. It is 
joined in East Lothian by the Faseny Water and the 
Bothweil or Bothal Burn, while the Monynut Water, 

M. E. L. 2 



18 



EAST LOTHIAN 



rising on Bransly Hill, crosses the boundary two miles 
above its junction with the Whiteadder at Abbey St 
Bathans. All these streams have their banks studded 
with remains of castles and forts, an evidence that 
in the old days they provided routes for southern 
marauders. 

The area of water in East Lothian is officially re- 




Pressmennan Loch 



turned at 418 acres, almost exactly two-thirds of a square 
mile. Of the dozen sheets of water — all with one 
exception small — most are reservoirs connected with the 
water-supply; some are ornamental lakes or ponds; one 
or two only are natural lochs, as Danskine. During and 
after the Glacial Epoch several large lakes must have 
existed similar to those in the Lothians farther west, but 



RIVERS AND LAKES 19 

they have long disappeared. The little loch — about ten 
acres in extent — in Balgone grounds was formed by the 
late Sir G. Grant Suttie after vain and expensive attempts 
had been made to drain a morass. On an artificial island 
wild-duck have taken up their quarters. But the largest 
sheet of water in East Lothian is Pressmennan Loch, also 
artificial. It was created in 1822 by building an em- 
bankment across the eastern end of a valley which during 
the Ice Age must have been excavated by a powerful 
torrent, but which was then tenanted by a sluggish burn. 
The slope was so gentle that it was afterwards found 
necessary to dam up the western end also. The lake is 
nearly a mile and a half long and about 300 yards broad. 
Surrounded by a thick screen of magnificent trees it is 
one of the most famous of East Lothian's picturesque 
resorts- 



6. Geology. 

Geology is the science that deals with the solid crust 
of the earth ; in other words, with the rocks. By rocks, 
however, the geologist means loose sand and soft clay as 
well as the hardest granite. Rocks are divided into two 
great classes — igneous and sedimentary. Igneous rocks 
have resulted from the cooling and solidifying of molten 
matter, whether rushing forth as lava from a volcano, or, 
like granite forced into and between rocks. Sometimes 
pre-existing rocks waste away under the influence of 
natural agents as frost and rain. When the waste is 

2 — 3 



20 EAST LOTHIAN 

carried by running water and deposited in a lake or a sea in 
the form of sediment, one kind of sedimentary rock may 
be formed — often termed aqueous. Other sedimentary 
rocks are accumulations of blown sand : others are of 
chemical origin, like stalactites : others, as coal and coral, 
are respectively of vegetable and animal origin. For 
convenience, a third class of rocks has been made. Heat, 
or pressure, or both combined, may so transform rocks 
that their original character is completely lost. Such 
rocks, of which marble is an example, are called meta- 
morphic. 

A more scientific system of classification arranges 
rocks according to the date of their formation, and is 
based upon their fossils. The organic remains preserved 
within the solid stone form a record which the geologist 
may read. Igneous rocks, of course, contain no fossils, 
and in most metamorphic rocks the fossils have been 
destroyed or altered almost beyond recognition, but they 
can generally be " placed " by reference to the neigh- 
bouring formations. If we find, for example, a basaltic 
dyke penetrating sandstone, it is usually a safe inference 
that the sandstone was there before the basalt. On this 
system, then, the history of the earth's crust is divided 
into four epochs. First is the Primary or Palaeozoic ; 
next the Secondary or Mesozoic ; third, the Tertiary or 
Cainozoic ; and fourth, the Quaternary or Recent. 
With the exception of alluvium, blown sand, boulder- 
clay, and peat, which, as they form part of the surface 
covering, are technically " rocks," the whole of East 
Lothian belongs to the Primary or Palaeozoic Epoch, 



GEOLOGY 21 

which comprises the following systems, the youngest 
being on top : 

Palaeozoic Rocks 
Permian 
Carboniferous 
Systems -i ^Id Red Sandstone 
j Silurian 
Ordovician 
Cambrian 

The East Lothian rocks, now to be described, belong 
to the Silurian, the Old Red Sandstone, and the Carbo- 
niferous Systems, along with their Intrusive Igneous rocks. 
The fact that nothing is left in the county representative 
of the Tertiary or Secondary Epochs is one of great 
importance. It is clear that during long ages the surface 
must have been exposed to the influence of the various 
denuding agencies, aerial and sub-aerial, and consequently 
the original features have been subjected to profound 
modification. Hence long-buried rocks have come to 
light. 

The outstanding features in the geological history of 
East Lothian are (i) the deposition of the Silurian strata; 
(2) the mountain-making movements which contorted 
and elevated those Silurian strata; (3) the deposition of 
the Old Red Sandstone; (4) the formation of the Carbo- 
niferous system; (5) the subsidence resulting in the Great 
Rift or Central Valley of Scotland; (6) the various igneous 
intrusions; (7) the Glacial Epoch. 

The Silurian rocks, with which may be included 
those belonging to the Ordovician system, cover prac- 
tically the whole of the county south of the great boundary 



22 EAST LOTHIAN 

fault, that is, the East Lothian portion of the Lammermuir 
Hills. They consist of black and grey shales, greywackes, 
flags, conglomerates, and radiolarian cherts or impure 
flints. These rocks abound in fossils, the most charac- 
teristic being the graptolites. The continent whence 
these sediments — except the cherts which are of marine 
origin — were derived lay to the north-west, its coast-line 
extending from Connemara to Aberdeen. It was during 
the Silurian Epoch that vertebrate animals came into 
being. These were fishes of humble form, but suflficiently 
developed to be preserved through long ages as fossils. 
Towards the close of the era there occurred outbreaks 
of volcanic activity, represented now by numerous but 
short dykes of igneous material running as usual from 
south-west to north-east, and by the bold triangular mass 
of Priestlaw Hill, an intrusive boss of granite. 

These disturbances accompanied an upheaval of the 
earth's crust which must have covered a considerable 
area. The Southern Uplands of Scotland were then 
continuous with the Mourne Mountains of Ireland ; and 
the contorted strata prove the existence of high ranges of 
mountains with deep valleys between. 

Then followed a long period of denudation. At 
length a further subsidence took place favouring the 
formation of valley lakes. Into them flowed rapid rivers 
from the surrounding highlands, bearing large quantities 
of sand, while beaches of water-worn pebbles were formed 
on the margins. The climate too was dry, and thus the 
red sand was blown into the lakes to settle on the bottom, 
and be compressed into Old Red Sandstone. Curious 



GEOLOGY 23 

fishes swarmed in the waters, the most characteristic 
being the Holoptychius nobilissimus. In our region a lake 
extended from the Cheviots across the eastern Lammer- 
muirs to a little beyond the present coast-line. The 
remaining rocks of this series are on the south side of 
the fault running from Dunbar to Gilford. Several 
valleys which had been excavated in the Silurian strata 
are completely filled with huge quantities of conglomerate. 
The most remarkable mass is that crossing the Lammer- 
muirs from Spott to Dirrington Law — a mass which must 
have been not less than 2000 feet thick. 

The close of the Old Red Sandstone epoch was 
marked by subsidence of the land, and a return to humid 
conditions. The fresh-water lakes became arms of the 
sea and were greatly enlarged. Numerous rivers wandered 
lazily over the flat country, here and there expanding into 
marshes, and terminating in swampy deltas. The climate 
resembled that of a hot-house. Life was abundant. 
Luxuriant vegetation covered the whole land, quickly 
growing and quickly decaying. Frequent subsidences 
occurred, causing the rich carbonaceous matter to be 
buried beneath layers of sand, mud, and gravel, or, where 
the water was deeper and clearer, of limestone. The 
pressure thus applied converted the wood into coal. Bed 
after bed was laid down, each succeeding layer depressing 
the masses below, and so preparing the way for further 
depositions. Thus in the course of time a very consider- 
able thickness of rock was formed, amounting in East 
Lothian to more than 10,000 feet, although the water- 
covering was never at any period very deep. 



24 EAST LOTHIAN 

The Carboniferous Era was marked by great volcanic 
activity, accompanied by extensive faulting. This cul- 
minated in the event to which Scotland owes its present 
industrial prosperity. A large portion of the earth's crust, 
bounded on the north-west by a line drawn between 
Kintyre and Stonehaven, and on the south-east by a line 
drawn between Girvan and Dunbar, sank downwards. 
Thus was formed the Great Rift Valley of Central 
Scotland. From the margins on both sides streams 
flowed into the trough, bringing mud, sand and gravel, 
and protecting the precious carboniferous strata. The 
coal-fields of Scotland were thus preserved from denuda- 
tion and lay hid till modern times. To the south-east of 
Dunbar another fault, roughly at right angles to the 
Lammermuir Fault, passes through Oldhamstocks, Inner- 
wick, and Broxmouth. By it carboniferous rocks were 
let down to the level of the Central Valley, and thus 
a small portion of the Lowlands of Scotland extends a 
little round the corner, as it were, into the Southern 
Uplands, and cuts off that part of the Lammermuirs 
from the sea. 

In various parts of the county, but especially on the 
Dunbar foreshore, are volcanic necks or vents filled with 
different materials. The Dove Rock at Dunbar is a plug 
of basalt ; but many of the necks are filled with volcanic 
ash, and some with non-volcanic sedimentary matter. 
Dunbar Castle Rocks mark the site of another vent, 
choked with red and green tuff. St Baldred's Cradle, 
north of the mouth of the Tyne, is dolerite of a coarsely 
crystalline type. Of the volcanic rocks three are very 



GEOLOGY 25 

important from the scenic point of view. The Bass 
Rock rises 350 feet above and extends to 60 feet below 
sea-level. It is a stock of trachyte, left in striking isola- 
tion and forming a conspicuous landmark at the entrance 
to the Firth. North Berwick Law is another mass of 
trachyte, towering more than 400 feet above the general 
level around. Traprain Law is a third trachytic intrusion, 




Dunbar Castle Rocks 

but of a different character. Its dome-like shape is in- 
teresting rather than picturesque. It was formed by a 
swelling of lava from below like a huge solid bubble, and 
it is known technically as a laccolite. Smaller and less 
perfect laccolites exist at Pencraig and Garvald. All the 
islands and skerries off the coast, such as Fidra and the 
Lamb, are of volcanic origin. 



26 



EAST LOTHIAN 



An immensely long period of quiescence followed, 
during which the forces of denudation lowered the level 
of the uplands, carved in them deep valleys, and pushed 
seaward the plains. The volcanic rocks being harder 
offered greater resistance than the softer sandstones and 
shales. Hence an approximation took place to the physio- 




Ejected Blocks and Platform of Marine Denudation, near 
North Berwick 

graphy of the present day — outstanding bosses and ridges 
of volcanic rock with valleys between, trending from west 
to east. Thick forest, now of a more temperate character, 
covered the whole region. 

From causes that are still undetermined, the tempera- 
ture steadily dropped, until on the Highlands and over 
the Southern Uplands great ice-sheets were formed. From 



GEOLOGY 27 

these mighty glaciers crawled slowly down over the Low- 
lands, overwhelming the tops of the highest hills, their 
surfaces dotted with huge boulders, by their banks lofty 
moraines, and pushing resistlessly before them great heaps 
of debris. The Forth Glacier, as it may be named, must 
have been at least 3000 feet thick ; and, by its planing 
work alone, it profoundly modified the face of the district. 
The direction of its course was first from north-west to 
south-east; but in East Lothian, diverted by the tributary 
from the south, its course turned to the east and even 
a little to the north of it. This is proved by the scratches 
or glacial striae found on the rock surfaces at Thornton 
Loch, Catcraig Quarry, the Garleton Hills, and else- 
where. 

What, then, were the main results of the glacial 
epoch ? First, previously existing natural features were 
accentuated : valleys were deepened, and consequently 
masses of hard rocks became more prominent. North 
Berwick Law and Traprain Law show their gentlest 
slopes on the east, and are modified examples of "crag 
and tail." Secondly, the ice-sheet covered the whole 
region with a layer of clay mixed with stones, from 
which most of the present surface soil is derived. This 
till or boulder-clay filled up all the river channels. At 
Beanston, near Haddington, a deep boring failed to pierce 
the drift, which may mark a pre-glacial course of the 
Tyne to the sea at Peffer Sands. The composition of 
the till has sometimes given rise to curious mistakes. For 
example, coal was once discovered at Oldhamstocks. An 
examination proved, however, that the coal was merely 



28 EAST LOTHIAN 

scattered through the boulder-clay, and had come from 
the measures farther west. Thirdly, the glacier carried 
on its surface boulders, which travelled for long distances. 
When the ice melted the boulders were stranded far from 
their place of origin. In some cases the term boulder is 
almost a misnomer. Kidlaw, for example, is a mass of 
limestone, a third of a mile long and a quarter broad. 
Others are at Marl Law Quarry, and at Woodcote Park, 
near Fala. On the foreshore at Dunbar are numerous 
smaller masses of greywacke, which may have been trans- 
ported from the Western Highlands. Fourthly, East 
Lothian provides striking examples of the so-called dry 
valleys — valleys which either contain no stream at all, 
or are much too large to have been formed by the existing 
rivulet. When the climate became milder, the re- 
treating ice-sheet presented a precipitous front to the 
Lammermuirs. The foot of this became a drainage 
channel for the water from the hills and from the glacier 
itself. The general trend of the channels is from south- 
west to north-east. They are thus parallel to the Lam- 
mermuirs. One of them, three miles south of Dunbar, 
has the very suggestive name of Dry Burn. Separating 
Deuchrie Dod from the Lammermuirs is a channel 200 
feet deep, cut in the solid rock. Another of great beauty 
joins the Spott Burn just above Spott. When a post- 
glacial stream entered a glacial dry valley the sudden 
lessening of the slope gave rise to a delta which in most 
cases modified the drainage. A typical specimen of this 
" corrom " formation is the Aikengall Burn, which was 
a pre-glacial tributary of the Oldhamstocks Burn, but 




&. 



I 



30 EAST LOTHIAN 

now flows into the Braidwood or Thornton Burn. When 
the main ice-sheet was retreating the climate was still cold 
enough to permit of local glaciers on the Lammermuirs. 
The violent torrents from these formed long banks of 
sand and gravel, which, though not prominent from a 
distance owing to the narrowness of the valleys between 
them, are surprisingly revealed from close at hand. On 
the final retreat of the ice-sheet lakes were formed and 
deposits of silt made, but they were never so numerous 
in East as in Mid and West Lothian. The clearest 
remains are to be found near Broxmouth, at East Fortune, 
and beside Balgone House. At the last a boring recorded 
shell marl, glacial drift, and grey sand. In the shell marl 
were numerous bones of red deer, wild boar and other 
animals, as well as human skulls. 

The surface soil is naturally derived from the under- 
lying rock. In the more level parts of the streams are 
haughs covered with alluvium, carried perhaps from a 
distance. All round the coasts are extensive tracts of 
blown sand, occupied by the golf-courses of Dunbar, 
North Berwick, and Gullane. Soil from carboniferous 
rocks conveyed by the ice-sheet overlaps the Old Red 
Sandstone. But in general the surface covering is of 
the same materials as the rock immediately beneath it. 
Much of the soil in East Lothian is of excellent quality, 
even tempting the plough to follow it well up the slopes 
of the Lammermuirs. Behind Port Seton and Cockenzie 
is a fertile strip possibly derived from the lOO-foot beach, 
which is occupied by market gardens. But the finest is 
the soil derived from the Old Red Sandstone — Dunbar 



GEOLOGY 31 

red soil, stretching for fifteen miles lengthwise to the 
Tyne. 

The portions of the Carboniferous Series found in 
East Lothian are as follows: 
Lower Coal Measures. 
Millstone Grit (Roslin Sandstone Series). 
Carboniferous Limestone Series. 
Upper Limestone Group. 
Edge Coal Group. 
Lower Limestone Group. 
Calciferous Sandstone Series with contemporaneous 
igneous rocks of various types. 
The actual coal measures are confined to a small area 
extending along the coast from Port Seton to Prestonpans 
and inland past Tranent to Ormiston and Pencaitland. 
The East Lothian coal-field is separated from that of 
Midlothian by the Roman Camp Ridge. 



7. Natural History. 

Twice at least since the ice retreated, dry land has 
joined Britain to Europe ; and it was chiefly by means 
of these bridges that immigrants came over to people the 
desolate wastes. Naturally the hardier plants and animals 
arrived first, and pushed close up to the line of the vanish- 
ing ice. But, as the climate became more genial, more 
delicate organisms followed ; and then ensued a fierce 
conflict for supremacy, which resulted in the present 
more or less stable state of equilibrium. As the land 



32 EAST LOTHIAN 

connection was not permanent, the number of species 
in this country must be less than in Europe, and the 
number will diminish towards the north-west, as being 
farthest from the source. Some species also had not time 
to cross, and others which did cross were unable to survive 
the altered conditions. Lastly, migratory birds are an 
exception to the rule, for many species visit Scotland in 
summer, and go no farther south. 

The flora of the British Isles is classified under the 
four heads of (i) Alpine, (2) Sub- Alpine, (3) Lowland, 
(4) Maritime or Littoral. All four are represented in 
East Lothian. Since the Lammermuirs have a large area 
over the 1500-foot contour, several Alpine plants have 
lingered as relics of colder conditions. In the peat 
mosses Rubus chamaemorus^ the cloudberry, grows freely, 
while Juniperus communis is occasionally met with. Heather 
is not so common as in the Highlands, many of the hills 
being green to the top ; but sphagnum moss is found in 
the damper places. All over the uplands one sees the 
mountain pansy, but Sisleria coerulea^ the blue moor grass, 
occurs rarely in the highest places. The deep dells 
descending from the Lammermuirs, particularly those 
facing the North Sea, are paradises for the botanist. 
Ferns are specially abundant. In Hall's Dean the Cisto- 
pter'is fragilis^ brittle bladder fern, and Lastrea oreopteris^ 
mountain fern, are in profusion. Aikengall Dean pro- 
vides a splendid show of Polypodium dryopteris^ the oak- 
fern, with very large fronds, Aspidium aculeatum var. 
lonch'itioides^ and beautiful specimens of Asplenium tricho- 
manes^ the black spleenwort. Of other plants may be 



NATURAL HISTORY 33 

noted the guelder rose, with its globular snow-ball flower, 
the Marchant'ia polymorpha^ bearing umbrella-shaped fruit, 
and the Rubus saxatila^ stone bramble. 

On and near the shore occur sand and salt-loving 
plants; as the glass- wort on Aberlady sands; ^ilene conica, 
the striated corn catch-fly, at Dirleton and Gullane ; and 
Chamagrostis minima^ the dwarf-grass, only at Gosford. 
An insectivorous plant found in wet places is the Drosera^ 
the sun-dew. Near Aberlady church the hifolius variety 
of Blysmus rufus was discovered in 1894. The mare's 
tail and the deadly night-shade are not uncommon. In 
ponds occurs the bladder-wort. 

The Bass Rock possesses at least one plant, Lavatera 
arborea^ the red-flowering tree mallow, which is found 
nowhere else. Another almost equally rare plant on the 
Rock is the wild beetroot. The commonest of the Bass 
flowers are varieties of the Silene, or catch-fly, whose 
white or pink blooms splash the rock with colour. 

Except for one branch there is little of interest to 
record in the fauna of East Lothian. Wild mammals 
are extremely rare, even the fox being discouraged, as 
there is no hunt nearer than Berwickshire. The county 
is renowned for its low ground and covert shootings, 
pheasants and partridges being reared in large numbers. 
In the season a pack of beagles finds sport among the 
hares. Adders are fairly numerous in the Lammermuirs. 
Badgers are occasionally met with, and are perhaps the 
most interesting survival of our ancient fauna. 

Shore-birds abound on the level flats from Port Seton 
to Gullane, and there also the fowler makes laro;e ba2;s of 

M. E. L. :; 



34 EAST LOTHIAN 

migrants. The spring golfer at Luffness, in his occasional 
divergences from the "line " in search of a "sliced" ball, 
learns to his cost, by the beating of wings within a few 
inches of his ears, what it means to disturb a nesting tern. 

In the lonely glens or over the bare hill-tops of the 
Lammermuirs may be heard the cries of the curlew and 
the golden plover. Ring-ouzels haunt the burns, pere- 
grine falcons prey on the grouse and rabbits, the pestilent 
carrion-crow is everywhere, while occasionally a pair of 
rough-legged bustards reign over the moors till they fall 
victim to the gamekeeper. Merlins also are not un- 
common, and dunlins are known to nest. Herons are 
common all over the county and king-iishers haunt the 
reaches of the Tyne. 

But it is the Bass Rock that we must visit to observe 
a bewildering wealth of sea-fowl. Only at Ailsa Craig 
or on the solitary stacks in the northern and western isles 
is bird-life as abundant. Nearly all the year round, but 
especially in the nesting season, every cranny has its 
occupant, the clifF is white with plumage and the air full 
of shrill or raucous cries. During the seasons of migra- 
tion the lantern of the lighthouse proves an irresistible 
attraction, against which many rare visitants are dashed 
to death. Among the species recorded as nesting on the 
rock are the gannet, lesser black-backed gull, herring gull, 
kittiwake, guillemot, razor-bill, puffin, jackdaw, rock pipet, 
cormorant (common and shag), eider duck, peregrine 
falcon, and turtle dove. The last was probably accidental; 
and the peregrine falcon, to the regret of every ornitho- 
logist, no longer frequents the rock. The puffin, from 




Sea Birds on the Bass Rock 




Solan Goose on the Bass Rock 



3—2 



36 EAST LOTHIAIsr 

its comical appearance of mock solemnity, might be termed 
the clown of sea-birds. The blue or herring gull is called 
the robber, because it lives on what it can thieve from 
others. Yet the persistence with which it pursues the 
timorous guillemot, and, forces it to release its prey, 
which is then seized in mid-air, proves that the gains, 
although ill-gotten, are the result of hard work. The 
most interesting of all is the gannet or solan goose, which 
has for centuries been renowned as the chief bird of the 
Bass. From tip to tip of its outspread wings it measures 
at maturity- — in its fifth year — full six feet. Some have 
been known to live for close on half-a-century. Until 
comparatively recent times its flesh was esteemed a great 
delicacy not only by natives of Scotland but also by 
English visitors. Before coming to the kitchen the bird 
was buried in earth for a few days, a process which to 
some extent mitigated its fishy flavour. Estimates as 
to its numbers vary from 100,000 to 5000, but an ex- 
perienced ornithologist gave them in 1908 as from yooo 
to 8000. 



8. Along the Coast. 

The coast-line, exclusive of islands and minute in- 
dentations, is thirty-two miles in length. 

Coming from the direction of Edinburgh, we enter 
East Lothian when we cross, by a scarcely noticeable 
bridge, the Ravenshaugh Burn, a tiny rill which has, 
however, cut a deep dell in the escarpment, once a sea- 
cliflF. For a few hundred yards the beach comes up to 



ALONG THE COAST 37 

the strong retaining wall on the north side of the road. 
Outcrops of coal occur among the other rocks ; and, 
during the miners' strike in 191 2, family parties might 
have been seen digging up the coal and conveying it 
home in perambulators. The little harbour close by 
took its present name of Morrison's Haven from Sir 
Alexander Morrison, who owned it at the time of the 
Union of Parliaments. The haven itself, formerly 
Acheson's Haven, dates much farther back. It was 
probably constructed by the monks of Newbattle, who not 
later than 1210 obtained a charter granting " insuper 
carbonarium et quarrarium in territoria de Travernent." 
The coal was shipped at this harbour. Quickly traversing 
the hamlet of Cuthill, we reach the straggling town of 
Prestonpans. The name of this old town comes from the 
older village of Preston, a few hundred yards inland. Here 
again we find evidence of the activity of the monks of 
Newbattle, who as early as 11 98 were making salt at 
the pans of Althamer, now Prestonpans. Once clear of 
the town, the road runs close to the sea through Preston 
Links, no longer a golf course but often covered with 
fishing nets spread out to dry. 

Presently we pass a pit of the Forth Colliery Company, 
part of whose workings extends beneath the firth. We 
then reach the combined village of Cockenzie and Port 
Seton. Here are two harbours, of which Port Seton is 
much the larger. In Cockenzie is the fine old mansion 
house of the Cadells. Outside its west wall ran the first 
railway made in Scotland. The rails were originally of 
wood. At Port Seton one would fain think oneself 



38 



EAST LOTHIAN 



beyond the coal-mining district, but^ seams have been 
discovered, and soon this picturesque spot will be dis- 
figured with pit-head machinery, refuse bings, and smoke. 
At the east end of Port Seton we have before us a delight- 
ful stretch of coast-road curving like a sickle round 
Gosford Bay. On the right is a golf-course, one of the 
newest in the county. 







S 




Port Seton Harbour 

On our left as we go eastwards is a stretch of links 
gay in summer with gorse and wild roses, with here and 
there a sheltered nook beloved of campers. Presently 
we skirt the high wall of Gosford Park. Behind it is 
a thicket of hawthorn and other trees, whose surface, 
level with the top of the wall, streams eastwards, a 
striking testimony to the force and frequency of the wild 
west winds. 



ALONG THE COAST 



39 



Forsaking the coast for a little, we turn north-east 
and reach the village of Aberlady. We have passed on 
the left Craigielaw House, and beyond it the golf-course 
of Kilspindie. It is difficult to believe that Aberlady was 
the ancient port of Haddington. The bay is very shallow, 
and at low water the numerous fishing boats, which lie up 
here in the off-season, are high and dry. But we must 




Fishing Fleet, Aberlady 



remember that long ago vessels were usually beached at 
high water and unloaded when the retreating tide rendered 
them accessible to horses. The village now shows none 
of the signs of a bustling seaport, but it is frequented by 
the summer visitor who has no liking for organised 
"attractions." 

The road skirts the head of the bay, passing the lovely 



40 EAST LOTHIAN 

old mansion of Luffness, which dates back to the sixteenth 
century. Crossing the Peffer Burn, we traverse a wide 
expanse of links to Gullane. This is the beginning of 
a chain of golf-courses which collectively rival even St 
Andrews in fame. The first is Luffness. Farther on 
are the three courses of the Gullane Club. Gullane is 
one of the prettiest villages in East Lothian. Many of 
the buildings have white walls and red roofs, a green 
surrounded by houses lies a little off the main street, 
some fine trees adorn the west entrance, while above is 
the famous hill whose steepness every golfer exaggerates 
and whose breezes every golfer knows well. To the 
north is a broad beach of clean white sand. 

A little past the station is Muirfield, the home of the 
Honourable Company of Edinburgh Golfers. Archerfield 
House, with its private links extending down to the shore 
opposite Fidra Island, is farther east. Then down the 
hill we come into Dirleton, the loveliest village in the 
county. 

Two miles of road, uninteresting save for having the 
Law always in view, bring us to North Berwick. The 
Law towering above, the frowning Bass away yonder, 
the rocky coast fringed with islands, the town with its 
bright shops and prosperous look, attract its many visitors. 
The West Links is the famous golf-course. On the first 
tee Princes and Grand-Dukes, statesmen, millionaires, 
and quite ordinary people of all ages and both sexes await 
their turn to start. The very names of the holes are 
better known, to the caddies at least, than those of 
historic battlefields. The town itself rather leans to the 



ALONG THE COAST 41 

aristocratic. Quality Street has a pleasantly " genteel " 
sound. The ruins of the old nunnery are carefully 
tended, while the fishing industry is comparatively small 
and is not obstrusive. 

Three miles east is Canty Bay. Here the old red 
sandstone terminates in massive cliflPs, on one of which 
stands Tantallon Castle. From the head of the Bay a 




A^jL-^isx^'-^:i 



Golf Links, North Berwick 

motor-boat conveys the visitor, but only in fine weather, 
to the Bass. The only access is on the side nearest the 
land. Near it is a ruined chapel, the remains of the 
famous fortress, and a modern lighthouse. Through 
the rock from east to west runs a natural tunnel 170 
yards long and 30 feet high. It can be visited at low 
water. Hugh Miller compares it to the dark and dreary 



42 EAST LOTHIAN 

cavern into which Sindbad the Sailor was lowered along 
with his dead wife. The channel between the Bass and 
the mainland is as much as 75 feet deep. St Baldred, the 
patron saint of the rock, has had his name given to many 
features in the district, such as St Baldred's Cradle, and 
St Baldred's Boat. 

At the mouth of the Peffer the rocky coast gives 
place to wide sands, which continue nearly to Dunbar. 
Turning inland past Whitekirk, we traverse Binning 
Wood to cross the Tyne by its lowest bridge at the 
hamlet of Tynninghame. A mile beyond we reach the 
London Road near the beautiful grounds of Nunraw and 
Biel House. Soon we skirt the wide sands of Belhaven Bay 
and enter the old town of Dunbar, which is second only 
to North Berwick as a summer resort. Its castle, dating 
at least from the days of Malcolm Canmore, though now a 
mass of almost unrecognisable ruins, was for centuries the 
greatest stronghold in Scotland and the key to the Lothians. 
Westwards are the fine Old Red Sandstone cliffs with here 
and there an isolated stack, and on the east are the links 
extending nearly to Catcraig. 

The road leaves the town beside the modern Parish 
Church, whose square turreted tower is a conspicuous 
landmark, and skirts Broxmouth Park. Here were fought 
the two battles of Dunbar. For some miles the coast, 
though rocky is low, but gradually, as we approach the 
boundary, the Lammermuirs come nearer the sea. All 
the way from Dunbar road and railway keep close together, 
but a little beyond Linkhead they become contiguous, 
showing that the coastal plain has become very narrow. 



ALONG THE COAST 43 

Crossing the miniature gorge of Bilsdean, we arrive at 
the more deeply cut dell of the Dunglass Burn, where 
our journey ends. 



9. Raised Beaches, Coastal Gains 
and Losses. 

The evidence of various upheavals of the land, though 
not continuous, is very clear in several parts of the county. 
Often, however, the traces are obscured by the presence 
of blown sand. East of Prestonpans sandy deposits about 
the 100-foot contour indicate a former beach at that level. 
At Prestonpans it is largely covered with market gardens. 
Near Gullane it reappears and is continuous and extremely 
obvious from the village to Collegehead, a mile eastwards, 
where it vanishes altogether. Authorities suppose that a 
huge mass of ice — a relic of the glacial epoch — covered 
the hollow from Aberlady to the Tyne, that the terrace 
was cut in the ice, and so disappeared when the ice 
melted. From here to the boundary no unmistakable 
evidence of a 100-foot beach remains. Where the coast 
is precipitous one would not expect it, and elsewhere one 
must postulate ice, blown sand, or subsequent removal 
by denudation. 

The 75-foot beach is defined even less satisfactorily. 
It can clearly be seen on the face of the slope due north 
of Gullane. Elsewhere, as at Castleton and SeaclifF, 
both near Canty Bay, sandy deposits indicate a beach, 
although no terrace is visible. 



44 EAST LOTHIA]^ 

Fortunately, the 25-foot beach may be easily followed. 
From the Midlothian boundary eastwards its upper edge 
is marked by a bluff, eroded by the waves in the boulder- 
clay. From Aberlady to North Berwick it is less con- 
tinuous, but there it reappears, and is most conspicuous at 
the mouth of the Peffer Burn. One may follow it for 
some way up the Tyne estuary. Hence it is not well 
marked till at Belhaven what was a low cliff, is now a 
gentle slope, 20 feet above the sea. Part of Dunbar south 
of the old harbour is built on it. From Dunbar to the 
Berwickshire boundary the beach extends almost uninter- 
ruptedly. Owing to the general low elevation of the 
coast, this raised beach is of less economic importance 
than in many other parts of Scotland, but the coast road 
from Levenhall to Gosford runs along the old terrace. 

Erosion is proceeding between Port Seton and 
Kilspindie, a marked encroachment of the sea having 
been observed since 1892. This part of the coast faces 
west and is therefore opposed to the prevailing winds. 
At Dunbar, south of the old harbour, gardens and in 
some cases houses are just above high water mark. 
Every south-easterly gale causes damage. Groynes and 
a sea-wall have been built, but these require continued 
attention and repair. It is not at all unusual in winter 
for the houses to be bombarded by breakers. Near 
Skateraw in Innerwick Parish the quarrying of lime along 
the foreshore has led to some erosion. 

No artificial works for the promotion of accretion 
exist in the county. Any growth of the land seawards, 
therefore, is due to natural causes. The Tyne and the 



' ^m-r^u.mt^ii- ^'i'i^ », '•■ii'i.ii m *' ui' 




i 



46 EAST LOTHIAN 

numerous burns cannot be said to contribute much. 
They are too small, and in their lower courses for the 
most part too sluggish to convey a great amount of 
detritus to their mouths. We may take it, then, that 
Aberlady Bay, Belhaven Bay and other wide and semi- 
terrene expanses owe their sands to the transference of 
sea-eroded material by tides and currents. 

Lighthouses are fairly numerous and well-placed. 
The mariner approaching from the south sees, as his first 
East Lothian guide, the light from Barness, built in 1899, 
three miles south-east of Dunbar — not always an effec- 
tive warning, as occasional wrecks show. A beacon marks 
the dangerous shallow ending in St Baldred's Boat. On 
the south-east side of the Bass Rock a powerful light, 
erected in 1907, points out the deep channel between the 
Rock and the mainland. This channel is frequently 
used by vessels, but chiefly in calm weather and in day- 
light. The lighthouse on Fidra indicates the most 
north-westerly corner of the coast-line. All the havens 
are marked by pier-head and other guiding-lights. 

10. Climate. 

North-western Europe is peculiarly favoured in the 
matter of climate, as compared with other regions in 
corresponding latitudes. Proximity to the ocean is always 
an advantage, as is seen in the milder climate of Nova 
Scotia compared with the inland country due west ; but 
when to that proximity are added warm currents of air 
and water from the mid- Atlantic, then the advantage is. 



CLIMATE 47 

in a sense, out of all proportion. Suppose the earth to 
rotate in the other direction, one result would be that the 
higher parts of Scotland would become permanently 
ice-covered like the interior of Greenland. We gain, 
however, not only warmth, but also abundance of 
moisture ; in some cases, considering the nature of the 
soil, a superabundance. As the highest land is close to 
the west coast, precipitation is greatest there, and it 
diminishes with fair regularity towards the east. A 
rainfall map constructed on the basis of using deepening 
shades or colours to denote heavier precipitation would 
correspond very closely with an orographical map, where 
deeper shading or colouring denotes increasing height of 
land. 

On the average our country is not greatly favoured 
by sunshine. Even in summer with its long days, the 
amount of sunshine is smaller than in the Channel 
Islands, where the possible quantity is less. And in 
v/inter the deficiency is much greater than can be 
accounted for by merely astronomical reasons. The 
cause is of course the mountainous character of the 
surface, which encourages the formation of clouds. 

A study of an isothermal map of Scotland reveals 
some interesting facts. In winter there is a 2;eneral 
equality of temperature all down the west coast. In 
other words. Cape Wrath is, in January, as warm as the 
Mull of Galloway. Farther east is an approach to conti- 
nental conditions ; and we find small areas, for example 
one round Aberdeen, where the temperature is less than 
38° Fahr. The tendency is therefore for temperature to 



48 EAST LOTHIAN 

decrease from west to east. In summer the influence of 
the land becomes stronger, and the isotherms are roughly 
parallel to the lines of latitude. Temperature decreases 
from south to north. At all seasons, however, the ocean 
must be reckoned with. In winter it warms, in summer 
it cools the land exposed to it. Isothermal maps, again, 
are constructed on the ideal basis of imagining that the 
land is all at sea-level. An average allowance of one 
degree for every 280 feet must be made. For example, 
the summit of Ben Nevis is about 16° colder than is 
shown on the map. Under winter conditions, when 
snow covers the hills and not the lowlands, this difference 
becomes even greater. 

With the exception of rainfall, few statistics are 
available for an account of the climate of East Lothian ; 
but there is no reason to believe that the conditions 
differ greatly from those of Midlothian. Reasoning from 
general principles, we should say that East Lothian is 
colder in winter and rather cooler in summer. The 
contributory causes are that the county as a whole is 
more elevated than Midlothian ; that it is nearer the 
North Sea ; and that, though open to the west, it is less 
open to the south-west, while on the south rises the wall 
of the Lammermuirs, and the lowland portion, especially 
the coast from the boundary to Canty Bay, is very much 
exposed to the south-east. 

The two stations from which we have temperature 
records are Smeaton House near East Linton, 100 feet 
above and four miles distant from the sea, and Hadding- 
ton, centrally situated and 240 feet above sea-level. The 



CLIMATE 49 

average annual temperature at Smeaton is 47'3°, at 
Haddington 467° ; that is, allowing for difference of 
elevation, the same isotherm would pass through both. 
The monthly averages are : 





J- 


F. 


M. 


A. 


M. 


J. 


J. 


A. 


Smeaton 


37'7 


38-2 


4i'o 


46-3 


5o'5 


56-7 


594 


58"i 




S. 


0. 


N. 


D. 


Year 










53*9 


46*8 


40*9 


38-2 


47'3 










J- 


F. 


M. 


A. 


M. 


J. 


J- 


A. 


Haddington 


37'9 


38'8 


39'8 


446 


49*3 


55*3 


58'i 


57*0 




S. 


0. 


N. 


D. 


Year 










53'6 


47*0 


41*1 


384 


46'7 









July is the warmest and January the coldest month 
in both cases. As might be expected, Smeaton is warmer 
than Haddington in summer. In September, 1906, 
Haddington recorded a maximum of 88° and Smeaton 
86°. A minimum of 5° occurred at Smeaton on 
January 28th, 1906. This gives an extreme range of 
83°, while the average annual range is at Smeaton 21*7°, 
at Haddington 20-2°. 

The prevailing wind in the county is from the west. 
Second to it are those from the easterly quadrant. The 
spring east winds are very severely felt, especially along 
the North Sea coast. Occasionally in winter wild south- 
easterly gales, which come lashing across the sea, make 
life miserable, render navigation dangerous and seriously 
hinder the local fishing industry. The sea-fog known 
as the easterly *•' haar " is very prevalent in spring and 
early summer. The average annual amount of sunshine 
at the Blackford Hill Observatory, Edinburgh, is 1388-1 
hours, or 31 per cent, of the possible. One would expect 

M. E. L. 4 




Rainfall Map of Scotland 

{By Andrew Watt, M.A.) 



Cambridge Univ. i'mas 



CLIMATE 51 

East Lothian to be sunnier ; and indeed there are 
strong grounds for beheving that Gullane is the sunniest 
spot in Scotland. 

The rainfall of the county is naturally less than 
farther west. The map shows that the higher parts of 
the Lammermuirs have, on both sides of the watershed, 
a fall of more than 40 inches per annum. A narrow 
region along the east and north foot of the Lammermuirs, 
and including the village of Gifford, has between 30 and 
40 inches. Nearly the whole of the remainder of the 
county has from 25 to 30 inches. A small patch in the 
north, extending from Dirleton to Gosford, and compris- 
ing Gullane and Aberlady, with less than 25 inches, is 
remarkably dry. Only one other part of Scotland, the 
head of the Moray Firth near but not including Inver- 
ness, has a similar record, and, judging from the figures 
for a number of years, the Gullane area has a slight 
advantage. 

Every golfer who visits Gullane has observed showers 
passing down the Firth or some distance inland while 
around him it is dry and even sunny. This is particularly 
the case with thunderstorms, which contribute so notably 
to summer rainfall. For once, popular opinion, as the 
map shows, can be justified by statistics. But we do not 
agree with the popular explanation that North Berwick 
Law attracts the rain. The reasons probably are that 
the area is on the whole flat ; that local storms naturally 
tend to follow water such as the Firth of Forth, and 
valleys like that of the Tyne ; and that Gullane is almost 
as far as possible from the west, but so far sheltered from 

4—2 



52 EAST LOTHIAN 

the North Sea as not to get the full benefit of the 
moisture coming from the east. 

Taken as a whole, the climate of the low ground is 
ideal for agriculture, of the high ground for pasture, while 
round the coast the summer conditions of comparative 
drought combined with sea breezes are a powerful attrac- 
tion to the visitor. 

II. People — Race, Dialect, Population. 

As the Glacial Age came to a close. Neolithic man 
crept northwards to Scotland on the tracks of the rein- 
deer, and established himself all over the lowlands. These 
primitive people were small, dark-haired, and long-skulled. 
They are generally named Iberians, Iverians, or Silurians, 
and their present-day representatives are the Basques, in 
the south-eastern corner of the Bay of Biscay. 

After the Iberians came the great Celtic invasion. 
Being hunters and fishermen, the original inhabitants 
could never have been very numerous, and they were 
doubtless completely driven out, or at best overwhelmed. 
The scantiness of the evidence has made the identity of 
the Picts a subject of acute controversy. But the balance 
of opinion leans to the theory that the Picts were Welsh 
or Old Britons. As we shall see, there are in East 
Lothian several Celtic place-names which are not Gaelic 
but Welsh. It is extremely improbable that the Old 
British kingdom of Strathclyde ever extended so far east. 
Contemporaneous with it there existed^ the Pictish king- 
dom of Manau, which covered both shores of the Firth 
of Forth but did not reach far inland. Comparing the 



^AMES 
)THIAN 

5 0. S.raap 
' Miles 



4 5 



L Harness 




Gaelic □ 

Pictish or Old British o 
Unknown + 

St Germains is French 
All other names are Teutonic 



. — '-"" — ^v. ^.^i'eithies 
/ o ^"-^ ^-^^ — r^'^V^-vTantallon 

Sj;rabauchlinn Invereil Canty ^ °^°oCar 

Gegan 
Wamphray^ 
^Gullane „ -r, a- 

°Balgone P^^er. 



PLACE NAMES 

OF 

EAST LOTHIAN 

Based on theO.S.map 




Soutra 



Longformacus 



PEOPLE— RACE DIALECT POPULATION 53 

place-name map in the present volume with that for West 
Lothian [Linlithgowshire^ p. 56), one is struck with the 
distribution of the names whose origin is akin to Welsh. 
The evidence, then, is fairly strong that the Picts were 
Old British. The tribe which was paramount in our 
region was known as the Ottadini. 

It does not appear that the Romans have left any 
traces of their presence. Not so the Angles, who spread 
northwards and westwards through the Lothians in the 
fifth and sixth centuries. There is a marked predomi- 
nance of English names in the county, but this clearly 
decreases as one goes westwards. In 960 the Angles 
surrendered to the Scots the district between the Esk and 
the Avon ; while in 1018 by the great victory of Carham 
Malcolm II gained the whole province. Nevertheless the 
Angles though beaten were not driven out, and they 
gradually imposed their language on the inhabitants. 

The study of place-names, while not strictly a part of 
geography, requires a knowledge of geographical condi- 
tions. A theorist often evolves a beautiful derivation, 
which a visit to the ground shows to be totally in- 
applicable. For original work in this field it is essential 
to have a command of the various languages, or to have 
access to a recognised authority ^ To give a complete 
list of the place-names in the county would require a 
treatise to itself. But with the help of the general 
principles here stated, it will be easy to make classified 

^ The author again desires to offer grateful acknowledg-ments 
to Dr Watson, Professor of Celtic in the University of Edinburgh, 
for invaluable aid on this point. 



54 EAST LOTHIAI^ 

lists. Two important exceptions must be made. The 
first is what may be styled " fancy " names. A man 
builds a house and calls it Bellevue or Drumnadrochit. 
These must be eliminated, and, in fact, they are indefen- 
sible. Such is Phantassie at East Linton, which in a 
deed of about 1800 is spelt both with F and Ph. Bleau's 
map (1654) calls it Trapren, and Phantassie does not appear 
in the " Retours " or the " Great Seal." We conclude, 
therefore, that it is from the French " fantaisie," and is an 
invented or fancy name. The other exception is that of 
names the derivation of which we have been unable to 
trace. These are all shown on the map and marked 
" unknown." Aberlady is a very puzzling name. The 
earliest spelling is Aberlessic. In 1328 it was Aber- 
leuedy. Aber means mouth or confluence, but the name 
of the stream close by is Peffer, which is Pictish and of 
course ancient. The only name that may be Norse is 
Fidra, locally pronounced Fithera. A document of 
1509 makes it Fetheray, the termination of which looks 
like the Norse word for an island. On the other hand 
it seems unlikely that the natives would use foreign 
words for a place-name. St Germains, the name of a 
mansion near Seton, is in Bleau's map, and is probably 
due to the French influence during the period of the 
Franco-Scottish Alliance (1285 — 1560). 

Allowing for these exceptions, practically all of the 
names may be divided into three classes : 

(i) Old British or Pictish, i.e. Brythonic. 

(2) Gaelic. 

(3) English. 



PEOPLE— RACE DIALECT POPULATION 55 

(i) Distinctively British elements are tre^ "house," 
aber^ " mouth " or " confluence," and coed^ " wood." 
They are represented in the county by Tranent, "valley- 
stead " ; Traprain, " house by the tree " ; and perhaps 
Trabroun ; by Pencaitland and Keith ; while the first two 
syllables of Aberlady are certainly Old British. Other 
Brythonic names are Cairndinnis, PefFer, (Castle) Moffat, 
Pressmennan {Manau again), Prora ?, Carlaverock, Tyne, 
and possibly Papple and Papana. 

(2) Gaelic was introduced after the conquest of the 
region by the Scots, and the disappearance of the Picts of 
Manau. Certain prefixes are characteristic of Gaelic 
such as hal^ "stead," drum^ "the ridge," and k'll^ "church." 
Examples are Ballencrieff, " tree-stead," Drem, " the 
ridge," Kilspindie, "the church or cell of St Pensandus." 
Other Gaelic names are Belhaven = balk na h-aibne^ 
" village on the river " ; Brox(mouth), " badger " ; 
Garvald, " rough stream " ; and perhaps Lammermuir, 
which may mean " big bare surface." 

(3) English names are best classified according to 
their suffixes, and are very frequently personal. The 
most instructive suffixes are ton^ " homestead," law^ 
" hill," Ing, " son of," and wic, " dwelling." Of the 
numerous examples, we may mention Haddington, 
Meikle Says Law, Clerkington, North Berwick, and 
Innerwick. 

According to the Census of 191 1 East Lothian has 
a population of 43,253. Thus, though twenty-fifth in 
area, it stands nineteenth in population, and eleventh in 
density. The increase over 1 90 1 was 11-9 per cent., a rate 



56 EAST LOTHIAN 

excelled only between 1811 and 1821, when it was 13*1 
per cent. In the near future East Lothian will probably 
become one of the few Scottish counties having more 
males than females. At present the deficiency is only 
361. The three causes at work are the increasing 
development in the mining industry, the absence of 
textile manufactures, the great demand in Edinburgh for 
domestic servants, and the diminishing use of female 
labour in agriculture. 

Of the 24 parishes, 11 show an increase and 13 a 
decrease. Of the latter all except Gladsmuir are purely 
agricultural parishes, and many of them are very small in 
area. The largest increases are in Ormiston, 34*3 per 
cent., Prestonpans, 39*6 per cent., and Tranent, 41*9 per 
cent., in all of which coal is king. Dirleton parish has 
advanced by 14 per cent., which is entirely due to the 
rapid rise of Gullane as a summer resort. 

The population of 43,253 may be divided into inhabi- 
tants of municipal and police burghs, 20,302, and 
inhabitants of rural districts, 22,951. But there are 
several villages connected with mining, such as Ormiston, 
Pencaitland, Elphingstone, and Cuthill, which, along 
with the outlying suburbs of the burghs themselves, 
reduce the number of really rural inhabitants. Of the 
seven burghs five show an increase and two a decrease 
— Dunbar and East Linton. Of the five increasing, 
Tranent with a rise of 58 per cent, is the most remark- 
able. It should be noted that since 1901 the boundaries 
of East Linton, North Berwick, and Tranent have been 
extended. 



PEOPLE— RACE DIALECT POPULATION 57 

As regards density of population East Lothian has 162 
persons per square mile, slightly above the average for 
Scotland, but eleventh in order of the counties. Lanark 
has 1633, Midlothian 1373, v^^hile Sutherland has only 10. 



12. Agriculture. Main Cultivations, 
Stock, Woodlands. 

According to the returns for 191 2, out of a total land 
area of 170,971 acres, 111,714, or about 65 per cent., 
are under crops and grass. The arable land amounts to 
89,606 acres, leaving 22, 1 08 acres for permanent grass. 
Woods and plantations occupy 10,777 acres; mountain 
and heath-land for grazing, 38,982. The remaining 
9498 acres consist of waste land and that occupied by 
buildings. 

The farmers of the Lothians have for long been 
celebrated for their skill and progressiveness. They have 
not rested content merely w^ith the advantages derived 
from the natural fertility of the soil, and proximity to 
the great market of Edinburgh ; and they are recognised 
as the foremost in Scotland, which means the world, for 
a readiness to introduce new methods, and to utilise the 
discoveries of experimental science. It was not always 
so. John Cockburn, the last of his race to own Ormiston, 
although an exile in London, where he died in 1758, 
kept up his interest in his estate and wrote frequent 
letters to his gardener, Charles Bell. In one he says 
of Bell's father, who was a farmer, that " his husbandry 



58 EAST LOTHIAN 

goes no further than to gett bad grain one year and worse 
the next." Cockburn introduced proper drainage and 
regular rotation of crops, planted many trees, and was 
the father of scientific market and fruit gardening in 
Scotland. Another benefactor was Rennie of Phantassie, 
who was the first to bring the shorthorn into the Low- 
lands. Andrew Meikle of East Linton was the real 
inventor of the threshing machine. In 1712 Fletcher 
of Salton set up at West Salton the first barley mill in 
Scotland. At Hallhill near Dunbar Dr Hamilton in 1784 
introduced the Swedish turnip, ruta baga^ locally known 
as " baigies." 

Mr A. G. Bradley in The Gateway of Scotland calls 
the Dunbar red lands " the cream of the county, probably 
the cream of the earth." The soil is composed of red 
loams of maximum fertility combined with friable easy- 
working qualities. It receives lavish and liberal treatment. 
Here the potato is king. Sometimes the yield is eight 
quarters per acre. The average yield per acre in Australia 
or the United States would be ruthlessly ploughed under in 
East Lothian. Not an uncommon rental is ^4 or ^5 per 
acre. In the county there are no fewer than 17 farms 
with an annual rental of over ^1000. One tenant who 
holds three farms pays the princely rent of ^4321 per 
annum. 

The total area under cereals and pulses is 37,934 acres 
— 7658 under wheat, 13,736 under barley, and 15,976 
under oats. Small fruits such as strawberries and rasp- 
berries account for 336 acres ; orchards cover 74^ acres. 
Prestonpans has its market-gardens. Each of the large 



AGRICULTURE 59 

houses, and they are many, has its pleasance and its 
orchard. Behind Dunbar are well-known nurseries. 

Potatoes occupy 9015 acres; turnips, swedes, and 
mangolds, 14,604 acres. No less than 26,492 acres, or 
about 15!^ per cent, of the whole, are given to clover, 
sainfoin, and grasses under rotation. As already men- 
tioned, 22,108 acres are under permanent pasture, making 
in all, 28 per cent, of the available land devoted to the 
feeding of animals. 

Although cultivation has crept a long way up the 
slopes of the Lammermuirs, on the north side at least, 
these hills carry a large number of sheep. The total for 
the county is 130,848, giving about 770 for each 1000 
acres, as compared with about 1200 for Roxburghshire. 
They are nearly all of the black-faced variety, not nearly 
so valuable as Leicesters or even Cheviots, but hardier 
and more inured to stress of weather. Of cattle there 
are over 11,000. Horses for all purposes number 3771 ; 
pigs, 2289. 

Haddington is the agricultural centre, and has one 
of the most important grain-markets in the Lowlands. 
Between it and Dunbar are the largest agricultural farms. 
For size of farms Berwickshire with 21 8*4 acres comes 
first, East Lothian with 203* i acres, second. Over all 
Scotland the average is 85-9, in Shetland it is i6*2, in 
Sutherland 12*3. As regards yield per acre, taking a 
period of ten years, East Lothian is for wheat fourth, 
barley third, oats third, potatoes eighth, and turnips fifth, 
among Scottish counties. Wheat, barley, and oats average 
from 41 to 44 bushels per acre, potatoes about eight tons. 



60 



EAST LOTHIAN 



Woodlands occupy the relatively large area of 10,777 
acres, or about one-sixteenth of the whole, which is a 
high proportion considering the large extent of the tree- 
less uplands. Among the most notable is the Binning 
Wood at Tynninghame, planted in 1707. As the site was 
a bleak and barren-looking moor, the neighbours were 
minded to scoff, but the experiment was very successful. 





Binning Woods 



and the wood is one of the finest in Scotland. Oaks are 
the predominant trees ; and especially in summer, a ramble 
along the numerous paths and drives is an experience of 
sheer delight. From the public road to one of the gates 
extends a magnificent avenue of lime trees. Close by 
are the equally charming woods of Newbyth. In Bleau's 
map of 1654 woods are shown at Keith, Humbie, 



AGRICULTURE 61 

Ormiston, and Winton. These still flourish. In sheltered 
Ormiston are fig trees which produce ripe fruit in most 
seasons. These and the other trees in the wood were 
planted by John Cockburn. His beech trees still survive, 
and the yew which was already old in his time is to-day 
as vigorous as ever. Another famous yew stands in the 
park at Whittinghame, probably the oldest and finest in 
Scotland. The circumference of the spread of its branches 
as their ends lie upon the ground is considerably over 
100 yards. In the grounds of Yester near Gifford are 
some magnificent beech trees of great girth and height. 
In 1892 the highest was 95 feet above the ground, and 
the most massive at five feet up had a diameter of 15 feet 
6 inches. Close by are limes and Spanish chestnuts close 
on 100 feet high. But the most remarkable trees in the 
county are the six specimens of Pinus p'lnea^ planted in 
1846, on the railway embankment at Dunglass. These 
stone or umbrella pines are natives of the Mediterranean 
and no other specimens exist in Scotland. Finally, we 
may note the woods of Biel House, near Dunbar, and of 
Coalstoun House, near Haddington. 



13. Industries and Manufactures. 

East Lothian is not a manufacturing county. Most 
of the industries are of such small economic importance 
that in Lanarkshire they would not be mentioned. There 
is a distillery at Glenkinchie near Pencaitland. Belhaven 
and Haddington have each a brewery ; Prestonpans has 



62 EAST LOTHIAN 

two, with more than local fame for light table beer. At 
Prestonpans also are the works of the Scottish Salt Com- 
pany. The monks of Newbattle, who started salt-making 
at least as early as 1198, of course evaporated sea- water, 
but that is now employed only as part of the process of 
manufacture from imported rock-salt. The fire-clay 
associated with the coal measures is worked up by a firm 
of potters, who also use china clay from Cornwall for 
making table ware. In the burgh are two soap-works. 
At West Barns near Dunbar are the premises of the 
British Malt Products Company, who manufacture horse- 
food. Lime is burnt at Oxwellmains on the battlefield 
of Dunbar, and at Harelaw near Longniddry. Saw mills 
are situated at East Linton, Pencaitland, Ormiston ; flour- 
mills at East Linton and Haddington. North Berwick 
and Haddington have coach-builders, while the latter 
naturally has a maker of agricultural implements and 
a tanner. Cockenzie and Port Seton have boat-builders. 
Near the ruins of Gladsmuir Church is another ruin 
called Society, beside which is a very deep well. This 
was one of the breweries belonging to the Society of 
Edinburgh Brewers, founded in 1598. 

Probably the most interesting of all is the woollen 
factory at West Mills, Haddington. It is the successor 
of a mill which was the parent of the modern industrial 
system in Scotland. Towards the close of the seventeenth 
century several acts were passed with the object of pro- 
moting Scottish industries. These measures attracted 
capital from across the border, and an Englishman, Sir 
James Stanfield, in 1681 issued to the public "A memorial 




I bJO 



64 EAST LOTHIAN 

concerning the cloath manufactory." A company was 
formed. The government did their best by prohibiting 
the export of wool and the import of cloth, but this 
protective measure could not be enforced. Labour also 
was scarce, imported skilled workmen were expensive 
and, despite severe repressive tactics, refractory. The 
final blow was the murder in 1687 of the founder by his 
own son, who suffered the extreme penalty ; and the 
company was wound up in 17 12. The trial of Philip 
Stanfield is interesting on account of the full employment 
of all the old-fashioned means of justice, including torture 
and the touching of the corpse by the accused. 



14. Mines and Minerals. 

East Lothian has the distinction of possessing the 
earliest-worked coal measures in the world. The first 
known English charter, that of Newcastle, is dated 1234; 
but between 1202 and 12 10 Alexander de Seton was one 
of the signatories to a charter granting permission to the 
monks of Newbattle to work the Tranent coal. Very 
probably he himself was, previous to 1202, digging the 
coal at his own door. Some time ago a great subsidence 
took place on the railway close to Seton plantation. 
There was then discovered a seam of fine coal 8 feet 
thick and 6 feet below the surface. " The stoops were 
barely 4^ feet wide, and the rooms or working-places only 
3^ feet wide, while, instead of wood-props, the upper 
part of the coal had been beautifully arched in order to 



MINES AND MINERALS 65 

support a brittle clay roof. The ancient miner had done 
all his excavations here on the ' in-gaun-ee ' system, and 
one of the original openings was still quite traceable." 
Numerous other indications show that coal-mining is a 
long-established industry. A shaft has recently been 
sunk close to this seam at St Germains, and operations 
have also been begun nearer the village of Port Seton. 
Here, as at Preston Links farther west, the measures are 
prolonged under the Firth. 

The East Lothian coalfield is separated from that of 
Midlothian by the Roman Camp Ridge and therefore 
lies in a basin. The coal has the advantage of being 
near the surface ; the strata are frequently horizontal, 
and are little interrupted by faults or igneous dykes. In 
1909 coal was raised to the value of ^'345,131, but great 
progress has been made since. The highest coal, the 
Great Seam, about 8 feet thick, has been largely worked 
out except under the sea. The Parrot seam usually 
contains a band of cannel or gas coal, which is hard and 
does not soil the fingers. The best household coals are 
obtained from the lower portion of the Splint coal and 
the Rough or Kailblades seam. The total thickness of 
the coal seams in East Lothian is about 35 feet. 

The greatest activity at present is round Tranent. 
A serious drawback is the lack of a suitable harbour for 
export purposes, Cockenzie being quite inadequate. 
Nearly all the coal is sent by rail to Leith, and this causes 
delay and extra expense. A good miner can earn nine 
shillings a shift, which with nine shifts in a fortnight gives 
him over ;^2 a week. The miners live well, although 

M. E. L. 5 



6Q 



EAST LOTHIAN 



extravagantly, but on the whole are very steady-going. 
Until recently the great hobby was whippet-racing, and 
almost every miner had his dog. For some reason, how- 
ever, the fashion has changed, and homing pigeons are 
now de rigueur. 

Contrast this with the conditions of little more than 




/ 





Cockenzie Harbour 

a hundred years ago. Then the miners and their families 
were serfs. They were not at liberty to leave their birth- 
places, and children were compelled to follow the occupa- 
tion of their parents. The shafts of the mines were 
circular, lined with stone, and fitted with crazy wooden 
ladders. Up these toiled women and girls laden with 
coal, pouring with sweat, sobbing and groaning with 



MINES AND MINERALS Ql 

distress. Yet, says an observer, the moment their sacks 
were empty they returned to the shaft laughing and even 
singing. It was not till 1843 ^^^^ ^^e employment of 
women underground was forbidden by act of parliament ; 
and so recently as 191 1 there died at Prestonpans a woman 
who remembered carrying coal up a neighbouring shaft. 
But it was not colliers alone who were serfs. The salters 
at Prestonpans were '' thirled " ; and the women were 
compelled to trudge with heavy loads to Edinburgh, and 
greet the burghers with the cry " Wha'll buy sa-at ? " 

Seams of fireclay occur at Preston Links, Preston- 
grange, Northfield, Tranent, and Ormiston collieries, but 
are little worked. Blackband ironstone was formerly 
mined at Dolphingston and Penston. A haematite mine 
on the Garleton Hills near the Hopetoun Monument has 
not been worked for some years. Crystals of galena are 
visible in the limestone quarry at Catcraig near Dunbar, 
and in the dolerite dyke at Whitesands, but not in 
sufficient quantity to repay extraction. Copper veins 
in the granite of Priestlaw were formerly worked. 

The county is not noted for building stone. Many 
houses in Dunbar are built of Old Red Sandstone, but it is 
not very durable. The best of the calciferous sandstones 
is the Bilsdean sandstone, of which Dunglass Mansion 
House was built a hundred years ago. The Edge-coal 
sandstone is quarried at Tranent but is not of great value. 
Of the igneous rocks porphyritic trachyte is quarried near 
Haddington, East Linton, and Dirleton, for building pur- 
poses. The trachytic phonolite of North Berwick Law, 
a rich red-brown in colour, is easily worked, and hardens 

5—2 



68 EAST L0THIA:N^ 

on exposure. North Berwick owes some of its pic- 
turesqueness to the use of this stone. Limestone is 
extensively worked at Skateraw near Dunbar, and Hare- 
law near Longniddry. About 30 to 40 tons a day are 
quarried at Skateraw, two-thirds of which is sent to the 
west of Scotland for smelting purposes. The remainder 
is burnt and makes excellent lime for agriculture. The 
limestone of Harelaw is used for building, plastering, 
agriculture, and gas-purifying. 

Sixteen quarries in the county are now worked for 
road-metal. The best is composed of igneous rocks like 
the dolerite of Gosford Bay, the basalt of Kidlaw and 
Chesters, and the dolerite of Millstone Neuk. Silurian 
Greywacke and Carboniferous Limestone are also used 
but only locally. They are suitable for light traffic. 
Accumulations of glacial sands and gravels are worked 
at various places for local use, while building sand is 
obtained from a decomposed white sandstone near Winton 
Castle. 



15. Fisheries. Shipping: and Trade. 

East Lothian has four fishing ports — Dunbar, North 
Berwick, Port Seton and Cockenzie, and Prestonpans. 
The third of these is the most important. In 191 1 out 
of a total of ^16,612 worth of fish landed. Port Seton 
and Cockenzie had ^11,545 : with 599 men and boys 
employed in the industry, leaving only 160 for the other 
three ports. To it belonged 130 vessels of an aggregate 



FISHERIES 



69 



tonnage of 2793, the others had 28 vessels of 187 tons. 
At Dunbar and North Berwick the industry seems to be 
decHning. Their principal fishing grounds are from one 
to five miles ofF-shore ; and the chief kinds of fish are 
haddocks, codlings, and crabs, the last being the main- 
stay. The crab-catches indeed shov^^ an increase at 
Dunbar. At Dunbar also is the sole curing station in 




Dunbar Harbour 



the county. The Prestonpans boats have a similar range, 
but the catch is almost entirely codlings. Lines baited 
with clams, which are dredged by Port Seton and 
Cockenzie boats, are used for the codlings and haddocks, 
while crabs are trapped in creels. The beds at Preston- 
pans, which used to supply Edinburgh with the famous 
Pandore oysters, were ruined by over-fishing. At Port 
Seton and Cockenzie the industry is increasing. The 



70 EAST LOTHIAN 

boats range over the Firth of Forth and round the May 
Island. Besides clams, haddocks, codlings, and plaice are 
obtained. In winter herring visit the Firth, and are 
caught in nets. The herring is a very capricious fish. 
It sometimes comes in great shoals, at other times the 
shoals are small and few in number. In 19 ii many 
shoals kept close in-shore so that from fear of damage 
to boats and nets they had to be left alone. 

The home fishings, however, are comparatively un- 
important in East Lothian. The Port Seton and Cocken- 
zie fishermen depend mostly on following the herring to 
the principal Scottish and English centres. Some women 
and girls too accompany their relatives to help in mending 
the nets, and to work at the cleaning and curing of the 
fish. A family may thus return home in the autumn with 
a very respectable sum in hand to tide them over the winter. 
Compared with the Solway, Tweed, Tay, and Aber- 
deen Districts, the salmon fishing in the Firth is of little 
importance. The total assessed rental for 191 1 was 
^3756, while that of Aberdeen was just over ^18,000. 
The salmon are caught in standing nets on the flat sands 
at the mouth of the Tyne. 

The sea-borne trade of the county is very small. 
Dunbar exports corn, fish, and potatoes, and imports coal 
and timber. Prestonpans has a very limited export of 
coal, bricks, tiles, and salt. Were Port Seton and 
Cockenzie harbour to be enlarged and equipped with 
"handling" machinery, it would become the port not 
only of the pits close by, but also of Tranent and the 
whole coalfield. 



HISTORY OF THE COUNTY 71 

i6. History of the County. 

Little is known for certain of the history of East 
Lothian till the coming of the Angles. From 547 East 
Lothian was English. But in 1018 by the great victory 
of Carham, Malcolm II gained possession of the country 
north of the Tweed, which has ever since been included 
in Scotland. In the twelfth century Haddington had 
a royal palace. Here William the Lyon sometimes 
resided, and here was born his son Alexander II. In 
1 2 16 King John of England invaded Scotland and burnt 
Dunbar and Haddington, then and, like all Scottish towns, 
for long afterwards built of wood. In 1244 Haddington 
was again burned. Despite these disasters the county 
enjoyed great prosperity until the breaking out of the 
War of Independence. 

At the close of the thirteenth century the eighth Earl 
of Dunbar, of the Cospatrick family, favoured the cause 
of the English. While he was absent in England, his 
wife handed over the castle to the Scots. Edward I sent 
north an army under the Earl of Warrenne, which defeated 
the Scots at Dunbar, April 1296. The day after the 
battle, Edward arrived and received the surrender of 
Dunbar Castle, which he restored to the Cospatricks. 
There Edward II found refuge in his flight from Bannock- 
burn to Berwick. At that period the county must have 
suffered greatly from constant forays as well as by the 
passage of invading armies. 

During David II's minority, when Edward Balliol 
backed by the English was a kind of shadowy king. 



72 EAST LOTHIAN 

much fighting took place in the Lothians. In 1338 
Montague, Earl of Salisbury, with a great army and 
many engines, besieged Dunbar Castle. It was heroically 
defended by " Black Agnes," Countess of Dunbar, and 
after a siege of six weeks it was relieved by Sir Alexander 
Ramsay of Dalwolsey. " Black Agnes " was a typical 
Scottish heroine. When Montague brought forward a 
" Sow," she called from the battlements, 

Beware, Montagow, 

For farrow shall thy sow " ; 

and caused a huge rock to be let fall on the engine, 
scattering its litter of pioneers. A few years later, 
Eugene de Garanciere arrived from France with men, 
money, and arms to assist the Scots against the English 
invaders. Edward III, however, ravaged Lothian, burning 
Haddington, its monastery, and the famous church of 
the Fratres Minores, which had attained such celebrity 
as to be styled the "Lamp of Lothian." This raid, 
in February 1356, was for long known as "the Burnt 
Candlemas." In 1388 after the battle of Otterburn 
Hotspur with 2000 men crossed the Lammermuirs, and 
burnt Haddington with the hamlets of Hailes, Markle, 
and Traprain. The spoilers, however, were routed and 
deprived of their booty by an army from Edinburgh. In 
1400 Henry IV re-asserted the old English claim to 
suzerainty over Scotland, and with a large army passed 
through East Lothian, the last time an English king took 
the field in person against the Scots. He stayed in 
Haddington ; but for once no damage was done. Failing 



HISTORY OF THE COUNTY 73 

to capture Edinburgh Castle, Henry re-crossed the border, 
after an invasion lasting fifteen days. A century later, 
1503, Margaret Tudor spent a night in the Abbey at 
Haddington as she journeyed north to marry James IV. 

After Flodden the English were too exhausted to 
invade Scotland ; but East Lothian, in common vv^ith 
all Scotland, suffered severely by the battle, many of the 
leading landow^ners as w^ell as common people being slain. 
Thirty years later occurred the first of the two invasions 
of the Earl of Hertford. Haddington and other towns 
were burned to the ground. In 1547 Hertford, now 
Earl of Somerset, again invaded Scotland, and destroyed 
the castles of Dunglass, Innerwick, and Thornton. The 
army passed by Dunbar, Tantallon, and Hailes as too 
strong, and went on to their great victory of Pinkie. 

To the horrors of foreign invasion were added those 
of religious persecution. In February 1546 George 
Wishart, who, attended by John Knox, bearing a two- 
handed sword, had been preaching at Haddington, came 
to Ormiston Hall. The house was surrounded by Both- 
well, who captured Wishart and conveyed him to David 
Beaton the Archbishop at Elphingstone. Shortly afterwards 
Wishart was burned at St Andrews. 

Next year the English were firmly established in East 
Lothian. Lord Grey crossed the Lammermuirs above 
Yester, took its castle, and occupying Haddington, fortified 
it and left Sir James Wiiford as governor with 2000 
infantry and 500 horse. A mixed army of French and 
Scots, amongst whom were Highlanders, besieged the 
town, having the Abbey as headquarters. Next year 



74 EAST LOTHIAN 

the French built a fort at Aberlady, the old port of 
Haddington, in order to prevent the English fleet from 
landing provisions or reinforcements for the garrison. 
On July 17th, 1548, a Parliament v;ras held at the Abbey, 
v^^hen the French alliance was renewed, and the marriage 
of Mary to the Dauphin agreed to. Except for the defeat 
with great slaughter of a large English foraging party no 
important incident occurred till the capture of the governor 
when on a raid to Dunbar in 1550. Thereupon the town 
was taken and the fortifications razed. 

Mary Queen of Scots frequently visited East Lothian. 
Seton Palace was one of her favourite resorts. Two days 
after the murder of Darnley she arrived there with a large 
retinue, and shot at the butts with Bothwell. After the 
match the party adjourned to Tranent, and had dinner at 
a tavern. In 1567 Mary was " captured " by Bothwell 
and conveyed to her own castle at Dunbar, of which she 
had put Bothwell in charge. After her marriage to him 
she returned to Dunbar, from which she led her forces to 
the miserable affair of Carberry Hill on June 15th, 1567. 
From Carberry Bothwell fled to Dunbar, and thence 
across the seas. 

In 1650 was fought the second battle of Dunbar. 
Cromwell, having been forced to retire from Edinburgh, 
passed by Haddington to Dunbar, making his headquarters 
at the house of Broxmouth. He was followed by Leslie, 
who fixed his camp on the Doon Hill. Leslie had 27,000 
men ; Cromwell, although he had shipped his sick from 
Musselburgh, had ^'a poor, shattered, hungry, discouraged 
army," of about 11,000 men. Leslie had cut off Crom- 



HISTORY OF THE COUNTY 



75 



well's retreat by occupying the dean of Dunglass to the 
south. Obviously he had nothing to do but to "sit tight," 
and await Cromwell's surrender. But Leslie was over- 
borne by the clergy ; the Scots descended from the hill, 



N i Belharen 



The Battle of 

D U N B A^R.^ 

Royalists Kl 
Parliamentarians HI Qi 




Engl Mii 



Plan of the Battle of Dunbar, 1650 

were attacked by the English, and in two hours put to 
utter rout. The English lost only thirty men, while of 
the Scots 3000 were killed, and 10,000 captured. Crom- 
well wrote to his wife, " The Lord hath showed us an 
exceeding mercy." 



1^ EAST LOTHIAN 

During the Covenanting times, the Bass Rock was 
used as a state prison. There were confined in dank and 
dreary dungeons about forty Covenanters, including Robert 
Gillespie, Alexander Peden, and John Blackadder. Black- 
adder had held a conventicle on the hill above Whitekirk, 
and he died on the Bass, aged 69, after a rigorous im- 
prisonment of four years. 

In 1690 sixteen young Jacobite officers, imprisoned 
on the Bass, surprised their guards, and bade defiance to 
the government of William. They were besieged for 
four years, and being compelled finally by superior force 
and hunger to capitulate, obtained favourable terms by 
treating their captor to biscuits and wine, thus making 
him think that they had plenty of provisions. 

The Union negotiations of 1707 brought two East 
Lothian men into great prominence. Fletcher of Salton 
and Lord Belhaven and Stenton were by far the ablest 
supporters of Scottish Independence. Their speeches 
rang throughout Scotland, and, although they failed in 
their direct purpose, they helped to keep alive that feeling 
of distinct nationality which survives to this day. 

In the afternoon of September 20th, 1745, two armies 
faced each other near Prestonpans. Sir John Cope had 
marched from Haddington, and Prince Charlie from 
Duddingston, near Edinburgh. The armies did not 
yet come to close quarters, for Cope was in a strong 
position, with back to the sea, and front and flanks well 
protected. During the night Robert Anderson of Whit- 
burgh, a farm on Costerton Water, informed Lord George 
Murray and the Prince of a path through the marsh on 



HISTORY OF THE COUNTY 11 

Cope's left. Through the darkness stole the Highlanders 
past the farm of Rigganhead, and in the mist of the 
morning burst upon Cope's army. The whole affair 




Lord Belhaven 



was over in less than half-an-hour. The royalist dragoons 
fled ; but their leader, Colonel Gardiner, remained and 
tried to rally a body of infantry. He was shot and cut 



78 EAST LOTHIAN 

down, under the walls of his own house of Bankton, and, 
after the battle being carried oflF the field by his servant, 
died that night in Tranent Manse. The victory of the 
Jacobites was absolutely complete. 

17. Antiquities. 

Prehistoric relics in general are divided into the Stone, 
the Bronze, and the Iron Age. The Stone Age is com- 
posed of two periods : the Palaeolithic, marked by chipped, 
though otherwise unworked, flint implements ; and the 
Neolithic, by more highly finished and sometimes polished 
implements. No traces of the presence of Palaeolithic 
man have been found in East Lothian. Neither are 
Neolithic relics at all numerous or varied. Any signs 
of dwellings, long cairns or graves have been obliterated 
by cultivation. Implements of flint and other stone have, 
however, been obtained, particularly from the shore near 
Gullane and Archerfield, and near the mouth of the 
Tyne, less frequently from the hill country, as at Hare- 
law. These consist of arrow-heads, borers, scrapers, 
knives, and saws of flint and axes of other stone. As no 
flint occurs in situ in the county, we have evidence either 
of primitive commerce, or, more probably, of periodical 
visits to the chalk regions farther south. A {qw stone 
axes have been unearthed at Garvald, Stobshiel, and 
elsewhere ; but these may quite easily belong to a later 
period. 

Relics of the succeeding Bronze Age consist of cairns, 
stone circles, standing stones, hut circles and small cairns. 



ANTIQUITIES 79 

graves, kitchen middens, weapons, and implements. The 
cairns were erected for sepulchral purposes on hill-tops, 
spurs, or, if in the low country, often in prominent 
positions. Some of those which have been examined 
have contained stone cists with articles of bronze and 



-l4 



/ 



Piece of Pottery from midden at North Berwick 

urns. They are circular in shape, and the largest of 
them, situated near Tynemouth, is 60 feet broad and 
1 1 feet high. Other good examples are on Harestone 
Hill, and Whitekirk Hill. One stone circle survives in 
the " Nine Stones," only eight now, near Johnscleuch. 



80 



EAST LOTHIAN 



Of single-stone monuments, the most famous is Lot's, 
or Loth's, stone on Traprain Law. Here, according to 
tradition, was buried King Lot, grandfather of Kentigern. 
Another stone in the parish of Spott has on one face three 
cup-markings. 



II' '"! 




Stone Cist at Nunraw opened and emptied 

Near Yester, Pencaitland, Garvald and elsewhere, 
short stone-coffins have been found containing either 
doubled-up skeletons or urns full of ashes. The relics 
in the cairns and coffins, and in the middens at North 



ANTIQUITIES 81 

Berwick and Gullane, include fragments of pottery, a 
bronze dagger with gold mountings, two spearheads, two 
swords, and a ring. The piece of pottery illustrated on 
page 79 bears distinct impressions of grains of wheat. An 
expert is of opinion that the wheat was of good quality. 
This find proves that wheat was cultivated in Scotland 
during the Early Bronze Age. 

The coming of the Iron Age with the gradual 
increase of population demanded means of defence more 
elaborate than before. Its characteristic feature was the 
forts, remains of which are found all over the country. 
They almost invariably occur in groups, the individuals 
being separated sometimes merely by a few hundred yards 
of ordinary ground. The forts on the south side of the 
Lammermuirs were undoubtedly designed for the defence 
of the routes over the hills northwards, but at least some 
of the forts on the north side, as those near Gifford, are 
not on any line of communication. 

The shape of hill-top or knowe-top forts is generally 
governed by the contours, the others are circular or oval. 
The defences consisted of walls of stone and earth. On 
the top of the walls was a palisade of wood probably 
strengthened with turf. At Harelaw, a small portion of 
one wall sives evidence of vitrifaction. Some forts have 

o 

as many as four walls, others have none at all where cliffs 
or other natural defences existed. Foundations of hut- 
circles are numerous in some of the enclosures. A curious 
feature of these forts is the absence of a water-supply 
within their bounds, although a stream is not infrequently 
close at hand. More than thirty forts are scattered over 
M. E. L. 6 



82 EAST LOTHIAN 

the county. The most interesting are at Harelaw, Stob- 
shiel, Kidlaw, Friar's Nose near Priestlaw, and the 
Chesters near Drem. Traprain Law was once a fortified 
hill, and it is one of the largest of such structures in the 
east of Scotland. According to tradition it was the 
residence of King Lot. Without doubt, it was of great 
strength and was the home of a relatively large number 




Traprain Law 

[Lilies of ancient fortiji cations accentuated] 

of people. The extreme measurements of the works are 
1 1 00 by 300 yards. The ancient name of the hill was 
Dunpender or Dunpelder, which may mean " stockaded 
fort." The more modern name is probably derived from 
that of a farm upon its flanks, but both names are old 
British. 

Remains of later times consist chiefly of cemeteries 
and kitchen middens. The most notable early cemeteries 



ANTIQUITIES 83 

so far discovered are at Belhaven, Lennoxlove, Innerwick, 
and Nunraw. The contents of the middens are shells, 
bones, and pieces of pottery, glazed and modelled on the 
wheel. 

At Coalstoun House is preserved in a silver casket a 
pear vi^hich was a wedding gift from Sir Hugo de Gifford, 
the wizard of Yester, to his daughter. The story goes 
that the fortunes of the family hang upon the pear being 
kept uninjured, and that this has been tested twice. The 
tradition is well authenticated, and the pear is probably 
six centuries old. It is shrivelled but quite recognisable. 



i8. Architecture — (a) Ecclesiastical. 

We may here neglect the buildings of the early Celtic 
Church, and begin with the church architecture that 
came north from England. Saxon and Norman influence 
was first felt in the eleventh century, and during the next 
two hundred years there was a gradual development of 
the Romanesque or Norman style. This was marked by 
the rounded arch and tower, and the introduction of 
ornament. From the thirteenth to the sixteenth century 
the Gothic or Pointed architecture was supreme. This 
style had three stages — the First Pointed in the thirteenth 
century, the Middle Pointed or Decorated in the four- 
teenth and fifteenth centuries, and the Third or Late 
Pointed period. While the Perpendicular or Late Pointed 
prevailed in England and the Flamboyant in France, in 
Scotland there arose a style peculiar to itself. Its chief 

6—2 



84 



EAST LOTHIAN 



characteristic is the barrel vaulting covered w^ith over- 
lapping stone slabs, v^hich obviates the use of w^ood to 
support the roof. During the sixteenth and seventeenth 
centuries the Renaissance influence slowly penetrated, but 




Tynninghame Church 

it competed with the Tudor style from England and the 
surviving Gothic. 

Tynninghame Church is now used^ as a mausoleum of 
the Haddington family. The original edifice dedicated 
to St Baldred, who died in 606, has completely disappeared. 



ARCHITECTURE— ECCLESIASTICAL 85 

What remains is pure Norman with elaborate chevron 
ornaments and billet-and-hook mould. The west end of 
the choir, the chancel arch, and the pillars of the eastern 
apse are well preserved. A rather uncommon feature 
is the two arched recesses for altars. The church of 
St Andrew at Gullane is much more ruinous, but the 
now built up chancel arch is Norman. It was dedicated 
to St Andrew in the twelfth century, bestowed on 
Dryburgh Abbey early in the thirteenth century by 
Sir William de Vaux, and in 1446 erected into a collegiate 
institution by Sir Walter de Haliburton. Additions were 
made at the Reformation, but in 1633 ^^ ^^^ abandoned 
and a new church built at Dirleton. About a mile east 
of Haddington are the ruins of St Martin's Church. 
The chancel arch of the chapel is late Norman. The 
old walls are of irregularly coursed brown freestone, and 
the gables are lofty, perhaps to allow of an upper storey. 
A peculiarity is a number of holes about ten inches 
square, which may have held the beams of the scaffolding. 

The pre-Reformation name of Prestonkirk wasLynton. 
Here was the second of the churches dedicated to St Baldred, 
the third, now completely gone, being at Auldhame. 
The only ancient part of Prestonkirk is the small eastern 
choir, now cut off from the rest of the present church by 
a solid wall. It is in the First Pointed style. Pencaitland 
church is still in use, but most of it dates back only to the 
sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. The chapel on the 
north side was once vaulted and covered with stone slabs. 

Only one church, but that is of great beauty, re- 
presents the Decorated period in East Lothian, the parish 



86 EAST LOTHIAN 

church of Haddington. It was designed as a whole and 
completed in the middle of the fifteenth century^ The 
nave is the only part now roofed, and it is used as the 
parish church. At different times it has been repaired 
and improved. The original building was cruciform in 
shape with a total internal length of nearly 200 feet. 



r. 




Haddington Church 

The tower at the crossing is thirty feet square and ninety 
feet high and had originally a crown like that of St Giles, 
Edinburgh. A very beautiful feature is the main west 
doorway, a circular arch adorned with mouldings in Late 

^ Accordingly the Lucerna Laudoniae of Fordun and Major 
must have been the church of the Franciscans, a little to the 
north, of which no vestige remains. 



ARCHITECTURE— ECCLESIASTICAL 87 

Decorated style. The choir and transepts are ruinous, 
but the gargoyles and terminals are enriched with carvings 
of grotesque animals and foliage. On the north side of 
the choir is the mausoleum of the Lauderdale family of 
Renaissance work. 

Several churches belong to the Late Pointed period. 
The Collegiate church of Dunglass, founded in 1403, 
though used as a stable in the eighteenth century, is in 
excellent preservation. The roof is a pointed barrel vault 
with heavy overlapping slabs of stone. In the south wall 
is a fine sedilia with three seats. The church is not now 
a place of worship, but in the south transept is the burial 
ground of the Halls of Dunglass. Seton Collegiate 
Church is also disused except as a burial ground of the 
Wemyss family. The original plan was that of a complete 
cross but the nave was never built. It existed in the 
fourteenth century, was rebuilt in the fifteenth and com- 
pleted by the erection of the tower by the Dowager 
Lady Seton in memory of her husband, killed at Flodden. 
In 1544 the English burnt the timber work and carried 
off the organ and bells. The tower is crowned with 
a broach spire, the top of which is unfinished. Very few 
examples of such spires exist in Scotland. The north 
and south end windows of the transepts are divided into 
two compartments by heavy stone muUions built in 
courses, and each compartment is filled with smaller 
tracery. St Bothan's Collegiate Church at Yester was 
founded by Sir William Hay in 1421. Its nave and choir 
are not in the same line, and the walls are four feet thick, 
thus requiring no buttresses. 



88 EAST LOTHIAN 

Keith Church, now ruinous, was erected in the reign 
of David I as a private chapel by Hervie de Keith, 
King's Marischal. At the east end are two narrow lancet 
windows and a large vesica-formed opening above. The 
Winton aisle of Pencaitland church is pure Gothic of the 
fourteenth century, but the main body was built soon 



f: 





St Mary's Church, Whitekirk 

after 1660. The tower and portions of the west gable of 
Prestonpans church are of ancient date. From the louvred 
openings of the tower ''Jupiter" Carlyle and his father 
were spectators of the battle of Prestonpans. 

The gem of the county is, or rather was, the church 
of St Mary at Whitekirk. It is now, as the result of 
the dastardly outrage in February, 1914, a roofless ruin. 
The walls still stand, but all the woodwork of the interior, 



ARCHITECTURE— ECCLESIASTICAL 89 

the historic Bible, communion plate, and interesting 
furniture of the Haddington gallery have been utterly 
destroyed. Portions of the church, notably the charming 
entrance archway, date from the fourteenth century. 
The red freestone embosomed in trees, surrounded by 
picturesque cottages, made a very pleasing picture. 



19. Architecture — {b) Military. 

The Normans were great castle-builders as well as 
great church-builders, and their influence is distinctly 
visible in the early fortifications of Scotland. After the 
War of Independence came a complete change. Strong 
square towers with flat and battlemented tops and arrow- 
slits for windows, were built in commanding situations. 
Gradually a court-yard was added enclosed by a wall. 
The wall gave place to buildings, stables, and living rooms. 
When more space was required, the early plan was to add 
another storey or two; later on, a wing was thrown out. 
Hence the L, T, E and Z plans of more secure days. 
Another development was the substitution of a balustrade 
for a wall, which is the best mark of the abandonment of 
military for domestic architecture. 

Many castles were built in East Lothian, all of them 
probably on the model of the rectangular keep of the 
Normans. Of Dunbar Castle so little is left that it is 
impossible to describe its appearance in the days of its 
splendour. Dismantled by the Lords of the Congre- 
gation after Bothwell's flight in 1567, the castle was left 








The Goblin Hall, Yester 



ARCHITECTURE— MILITARY 91 

a prey to the elements, till it was finally ruined in 1842 
by the blasting operations when a sea-channel was made 
right through it for the Victoria harbour. 

The oldest part of Dirleton Castle dates from the early 
thirteenth century. These are the south-west towers, of 
which two are round and one square, the lower part of the 
south-east tower, and the adjoining walls. Besieged by 
Bishop Beck in 1297, it was restored a hundred years 
later, and again in the fifteenth century; while in the 
sixteenth, the time when common halls were being given 
up, a new hall was erected for the private use of the owner 
and his friends. Although a ruin since 1650, when General 
Lambert battered it, the castle is most interesting not only 
in itself but also from its picturesque surroundings. Its 
situation in a well-kept garden beside the village green 
reminds one of Kenilworth. 

Situated on a promontory above the junction of Hopes 
and Gilford Waters, Yester Castle commands an old route 
over the Lammermuirs. The walls remaining are 40 feet 
high and 6^ feet thick, defended on the third side of its 
triangle by a ditch 50 feet wide and 20 feet deep. This is 
crossed by a beautifully built bridge of undoubted antiquity. 
The Castle was erected by Sir Hugo de Gifford the Wizard 
in 1268, is now owned by the Marquis of Tweeddale, and 
has thus been in possession of two families for more than 
700 years. Its most striking feature is the Goblin or 
Bo' Hall, an underground chamber of massive construction, 
reached from the castle by a sloping passage partly cut out 
of solid rock, and from about the level of the stream, 
by a concealed entrance. Since a well has been found, 



92 EAST LOTHIAN 

besides signs of a fireplace, it must have been meant as 
the last retreat should the castle be taken, and possibly as 
a secret rendezvous for a sally. It is unique in Scotland, 
but similar structures exist at Windsor, at Dover, and in 
France. Fordun, writing about a century after the castle 
was built, ascribes it to demoniac agency, and the tradition 
persists locally to the present day. Hailes Castle belonged 
in Queen Mary's time to James, Earl of Bothwell, and 
was probably built by a Hepburn in the thirteenth century. 
The north postern adjoining the donjon is very ancient. 
A postern stair of great strength leads down to the river 
Tyne. Although commanded by neighbouring heights, 
it ranked, in pre-artillery days, with Tantallon, Dunbar, 
and Dirleton, as one of the strongholds of East Lothian. 
No castles were built in East Lothian between 1300 
and 1400, but six belong to the following century. Of 
these one of the best preserved is Elphingstone Tower. 
It is remarkable for the number of rooms in the thickness 
of the wall. One is a gallery 30 feet long and 6 feet 
wide. Another provides a peep-hole into the great hall 
by way of the fire-place. Whittinghame Tower is in 
excellent preservation. The entrance doorway has the 
Douglas arms over the lintel, recalling the fact that there 
Morton, Patrick Douglas, Bothwell and Lethington met 
to plot the murder of Darnley. The battlements are 
high and quite entire. The ground floor of Preston 
Tower is in two storeys. The lower was a dungeon and 
could be reached only by a hatch from the upper, which 
was a guardroom. A straight stair and also a hatch led 
from it to the real first floor of the castle. The entrance 



ARCHITECTURE— MILITARY 



93 



to the latter was by a movable wooden stair, which was 
completely commanded by a wooden platform above it. 
In the seventeenth century a two-storey house was built 
on the top of the tower. The architecture is quite 
different from that of the tower and gives a very quaint 
effect. Stoneypath Tower near Garvald is very dilapidated. 
It is on the L-plan, and the staircase is "as it were folded 





Tantallon Castle 



over and placed inside the re-entering angle " instead of 
being a square structure projected in it. In the hall is 
a double fire-place which was meant to serve both the 
hall and the kitchen behind it. 

Last but most famous of the purely military castles is 
Tantallon. "Build a brig to the Bass, ding doun Tantallon " 
is a local criterion of impossibility. It was built about 



94 EAST LOTHIAN 

1400. Beginning as a royal castle under the constableship 
of the Lauders of the Bass, it passed to Murdoch, Duke 
of Albany, then to " Bell the Cat," back to James V, 
and now it belongs to the Dalrymples. Surrounded on 
three sides by the sea, it had enormously strong defences 
on the fourth side. The road to it led across two ditches 
with mounds and outworks, then across a third ditch to 
the entrance, over which was a peel tower. The curtain 
walls were thick and high. A steep passage leads to the 
quadrangle, once completely enclosed by buildings, but 
those on the east side have disappeared, possibly under- 
mined by the sea. In the centre of the courtyard is 
a well, 100 feet deep. In 1639 the castle was taken and 
damaged by the Covenanters, and in 1650 reduced to its 
present state by Monk. 



20. Architecture — (c) Domestic and 
Municipal. 

The sixteenth century saw the gradual abandonment 
of fortified castles in commanding situations for pleasant 
sites sheltering ornate and spacious mansions. Towers 
became turrets, battlements parapets, and curtain walls 
balustrades. Hence the Scottish baronial type of archi- 
tecture — truly national if not truly artistic. Keith House 
was of this type, though it was repaired in Gothic style 
in the eighteenth century. 

Winton House is the most beautiful seat in East 
Lothian, and one of the finest examples of Renaissance 



96 EAST LOTHIAN 

architecture in Scotland. It was designed by William 
Wallace, the king's master mason. The notable features 
are the tall Elizabethan chimneys adorned with spirals, 
and slates on the roof, which are cut into patterns. 
Within are spacious rooms, in particular the drawing- 
room and King Charles's room, the ceilings of which are 
of fine plaster work of the time of James VI. Across 
the Tyne is Fountainhall, another fine old Scottish house 
in well-kept grounds. 

A famous East Lothian seat is Lethington near 
Haddington. A Maitland bought the estate from the 
GifFords in the fourteenth century; but the present 
building dates from the second half of the fifteenth century. 
Built on the L-plan, it is spacious and ornamented with 
battlements, gargoyles and carved monsters. Adjoining 
the old tower and connected with it is the modern 
mansion. In the seventeenth century the name was 
changed. The then owner playfully offered to sell it to 
Lord Blantyre, well knowing he could not afford to buy 
it. Blantyre's daughter, however, was the Duchess of 
Lennox, a reigning beauty at the court of Charles II and 
the model for the figure of Britannia on our coinage. 
She provided her father with the money; and the next 
time the offer was made, to the owner's chagrin, it was 
accepted. Hence the new name of Lennoxlove. 

Northfield House, Prestonpans, has a quaint hall on 
the first floor; Magdalen's House, locally named the 
"Barracks," is a fine piece of Renaissance work; Lord 
Fountainhall's House has a towering chimney and ingle 
neuk, while some of the fire-places have projecting hoods. 



ARCHITECTURE— DOMESTIC 97 

At Cuthill, near Prestonpans, several cottages have outside 
stairs. In Dunbar, near the harbour, is a house with two 
outside stairs, one above and at right angles to the other. 
Haddington House, dated 1680, has a notable entrance, 
porch and staircase, and a glass door of seventeenth century 
work. Dunbar Town Hall, dating probably from the 
sixteenth century, with its spire and crow-step gables, is 
extremely picturesque. 



21. Communications— Roads and Rail= 
ways. 

East Lothian aflPords some beautiful examples of the 
control of communications by natural features, and also 
to some extent of man's contemptuous treatment of 
physical obstacles. Observe how the roads converge upon 
the railway line at Prestonpans after being miles apart to 
the east; how road and rail cling to each other from 
Dunbar southwards to the boundary; and how from 
GifFord and Garvald two roads start to cross the Lammer- 
muirs, only to meet on the Whiteadder. Elsewhere roads 
run a short distance into the hills, and then stop or return 
by some other way. On the other hand, from Haddington 
two routes cross boldly over nearly the highest part of the 
Garleton Hills, one to North Berwick, the other almost 
as straight as possible to the old port of Aberlady. Some 
of the curious "dry" valleys parallel to the Lammermuirs 
are traversed by roads, the higher of them crossing the 
little streams by fords. 

M. E. L. 7 



98 EAST LOTHIAN 

Entering the county from Edinburgh, a traveller has 
the choice of three routes, the low, the middle, and the 
high. For Berwick-on-Tweed, he will climb the hill to 
Tranent, whence gentle undulations take him to the 
cobble stones of Haddington. Thence to East Linton 
the road runs above the Tyne along the flanks of the 
Garleton Hills. Crossing the river, it is level to West 
Barns and uphill into Dunbar. Or one may turn aside at 
Hedderwick and avoiding Dunbar go direct to Broxmouth. 
The coastal sill is followed to the boundary, where is 
a fine bridge over the Dunglass Burn. The middle road 
follows the railway, crossing and re-crossing it by bridges 
or on the level to Drem. It is a useful alternative to the 
coast-road, which, though flat and picturesque, is narrow 
and winding as far as Dirleton. 

A glance at the O.S. map is sufficient to show that 
Haddington is a real centre for roads, although it is only 
a terminus on a branch line of railway. From each end 
of the street roads diverge north and south. Curiously 
enough, the bridges across the river do not carry main 
roads. 

Very little is known about the ancient roads. In 
Bleau's map of 1654, the only highway given in the 
county comes from Musselburgh to Preston (not Preston- 
pans), and then goes inland, following roughly the line of 
the present Haddington branch railway, but avoiding the 
county town, to which it sends an off-shoot. Farther on 
it crosses the Tyne at " Linntyn briggas," and follows the 
existing road to Dunbar. Several drove roads cross the 
Lammermuirs. One, called the Herring Road, leads from 



COMMUNICATIONS 



99 



Dunbar over its Common on the hills to the Whiteadder. 
Another connects Innerwick with the Monynut Water 
and Abbey St Bathans in Berwickshire. A third leaves 
the old Gifford road and follows a very straight line to 
Longformacus. 

On these roads were rude bridges — some of which 
still stand — ^just wide enough for a pack-horse. One of 




Nungate Bridge 

them called Edincain's bridge was at the Thornton Burn. 
Only a few traces of it remain. Both at Dunglass and 
Pease bridges the traveller on looking over will see remains 
which prove that at one time the road crossed at a much 
lower level. The most famous bridge is the Nungate at 
Haddington, possibly dating from the twelfth century. 
Less than twelve feet wide, it is extremely steep at both ends. 

7—2 



100 EAST LOTHIAN 

East Lothian is monopolised by the North British 
Railway Company. The main line, which is part of the 
East Coast route to London, enters the county above 
Levenhall, sweeps round by Drem to avoid the Garleton 
Hills, and proceeds by East Linton to Dunbar and the 
coast. Branches serve Aberlady and GuUane, Dirleton 
and North Berwick, on the one hand, and Haddington on 
the other. A light railway leaves the main line at 
Monktonhall near Inveresk, divides at Ormiston, sending 
one branch to Macmerry, and another to the charming 
country of Humbie and GifFord. It has long been pro- 
posed to extend the latter to Garvald. Several mineral 
lines serve the various collieries. 

The only tramway line in the county is that which 
follows the coast road from Levenhall to Port Seton, 
a distance of 3J miles. 



22. Administration and Divisions. 

For judicial and administrative purposes, a sheriff- 
principal presides over the three Lothians. East Lothian 
has a sheriff-substitute resident in the county town. 
There are also honorary sheriffs-substitute. In Haddington 
meet the Justice of Peace Court, the Licensing Court, 
and the Licensing Appeal Court, as well as the County 
Committee for Secondary Education. 

East Lothian contains 24 parishes: Aberlady, Athel- 
staneford, Bolton, Dirleton, Dunbar, Garvald, Gladsmuir, 
Haddington, Humbie, Innerwick, Morham, North 



ADMINISTRATION AND DIVISIONS 101 

Berwick, Oldhamstocks, Ormiston, Pencaitland, Preston- 
kirk, Prestonpans, Salton, Spott, Stenton, Tranent, White- 
kirk and Tynninghame, Whittinghame, Yester. There 
are three royal burghs: Haddington, Dunbar, North 
Berwick; and four police burghs: Cockenzie and Port 
Seton, East Linton, Prestonpans, Tranent. The county 
is divided into 27 electoral districts, which return 27 
members to the County Council. There are two district 
committees, one for the Western District with head- 
quarters at Haddington, the other for the Eastern District, 
centred at Dunbar. The Lord Lieutenant is the Earl of 
Haddington and there are 23 deputy lieutenants. The 
powers of the County Council are many and varied, 
ranging from water supply and police to lunacy and 
plague-prevention. Parochial matters are managed by 
elected Parish Councils. Their chief duty is the ad- 
ministration of the poor laws. Part of the rate they are 
empowered to levy is spent by the School Boards, elected 
bodies responsible for education within their areas. The 
County Constabulary is partly under the County Council 
and partly under the Commissioners of Supply. 

The military force is in the Scottish Command, with 
headquarters at Edinburgh. The barracks in Dunbar are 
a depot of the Royal Scots Greys. The Territorial 
Association, established by Act of Parliament in 1907, 
has for its President the Lord Lieutenant. The unit is 
the eighth battalion. Royal Scots, composed of four 
companies, stationed respectively at Haddington, Tranent, 
Prestonpans and East Linton. 

Until the passing of the Redistribution Act in 1885, 



102 EAST LOTHIAN 

the burghs of Haddington, Dunbar and North Berwick 
joined with Lauder in Berwickshire and Jedburgh in 
Roxburghshire in returning a member of parliament. 
This arrangement has now ceased and the county as 
a whole elects a member. 



23. Roll of Honour. 

Several noble families have been intimately connected 
with the county, as the Innes-Kers, the Hopes, the Hays, 
the Setons, the Maitlands. The first Maitland to become 
famous was Sir Richard (1496-1586), a Judge in the 
Court of Session, and a writer of religious verse. It was 
after him that the Maitland Club was named. His 
collection of manuscripts was bought by Samuel Pepys 
and they are still in the library of Magdalene College, 
Cambridge. His eldest son, William, best known as 
Secretary Lethington, was one of the most prominent 
figures in Scottish history in the reign of Queen Mary. 
A younger son became Lord Chancellor of Scotland and 
Baron Thirlestane. The Chancellor's grandson was the 
notorious Earl of Lauderdale, who ruled Scotland in 
Charles II's time. Two outstanding statesmen at the 
time of the Union in 1707 were Andrew Fletcher of 
Salton and Lord Belhaven. A Judge of the Court of 
Session, Lord Fountainhall, belonged to the Lauder family. 
He wrote two volumes of legal decisions, and charming 
gossipy books entitled Observes and Journals and Observa- 
tions on Public Affairs from 1665 to 1676. Sir Thomas 



ROLL OF HONOUR 103 

Dick Lauder (i 784-1 848) wrote several books, of which 
the best known to-day is Scottish Rivers. An eccentric 




Sir David Baird 



native of East Lothian, also a judge, was Lord Grange of 
Preston House. In 1732 he had his wife abducted by 



104 EAST LOTHIAN 

some Highlanders and conveyed to St Kilda, giving out 
that she was dead and holding a mock funeral. It was 
ten years before she was discovered, and then only by 
accident. 

The county can boast of its soldiers. Sir David 
Baird, of the Bairds of Newbyth, served with distinction 
in India, in Egypt, at the Cape, and in the Peninsula. 
On Moore's death at Corunna Baird succeeded to the 
command. For his services he received the thanks of 
parliament on four occasions. Other famous soldiers were 
Colonel Gardiner, killed at Prestonpans; John, Earl of 
Hopetoun, who distinguished himself in the Peninsular 
War and whose monument crowns the Garleton Hills; 
and Thomas Alexander, Director-General of the Medical 
Department in the Crimea. A native of Athelstaneford, 
a Hepburn, served in the Thirty Years' War and ultimately 
was made a Marshal of France. In another sphere Peter 
Laurie, born in Morham of humble parents, became 
famous. He made a fortune in London and was Lord 
Mayor in 1832. 

Among ecclesiastics belonging to East Lothian, John 
Knox stands supreme. Haddington and Morham both 
claim to have been his birthplace. One of the last and 
greatest of the schoolmen, John Major, was born at 
Gleghornie near Tantallon. He taught in the Universities 
of Glasgow, Paris and St Andrews, and died at St Andrews 
in 1550. Of his voluminous writings, the most interesting 
to us is his History of Greater Britain. Patrick Hamilton, 
John Knox and George Buchanan were all pupils of 
Major. Another ecclesiastic connected with East Lothian 



ROLL OF HONOUR 



105 



by residence was Gilbert Burnet, Bishop of Salisbury and 
historian, who became episcopal minister of Salton in 




John Knox 

1665. Although he soon went to London he never forgot 
his first charge and in his will left ^2000 for the education 
and clothing of thirty poor children and the upkeep of the 



106 EAST LOTHIAN 

library. The library still contains some books presented 
by the bishop. Of a diflFerent type was John Brown, 
who came to Haddington as an Associate Burgher minister. 
He is best remembered for his Bible Dictionary. One of 
his grandsons, Samuel, was a great chemist. Dr Alexander 
Carlyle of Inveresk was born in Prestonpans Manse. He 
is always known as " Jupiter " Carlyle, because he fre- 
quently sat to Gavin Hamilton, the sculptor, for the head 
of the god. His Memorials are rich in interest. Dr Caesar 
of Tranent was a fine example of the parish minister of 
the old school who survived into the present century. 
Robert Moffat, the great African missionary and father-in- 
law of David Livingstone, was born at Ormiston in 1795. 
In the manse at Gifford was born John Witherspoon, the 
first head of Princeton University in New Jersey, who 
was a member of Congress in 1776, and signed the 
Declaration of Independence. Robertson, the historian, 
was minister of Gladsmuir and wrote his History of 
Scotland in the manse. Later he was Principal of Edinburgh 
University and Historiographer Royal of Scotland. He 
died in 1793. Robert Blair, author of The Grave^ was 
minister of Athelstaneford. His third son was Lord 
President of the Court of Session and a great judge. 
Blair's successor in the parish was John Home, author of 
Douglas^ who died in 1 808. A contemporary and neighbour 
of Blair and Home was Adam Skirving, writer of Hey 
Johnnie Cope^ whose topical ballads made him locally 
famous. Another Skirving of Athelstaneford gained fame 
as a portrait painter. Samuel Smiles, author of Self Help, 
was born in Haddington. George Miller set up the first 



ROLL OF HONOUR 107 

printing-press in East Lothian, in 1795. His Cheap 
Maga-zine was the pioneer of modern circulating literature. 
James Miller, his son, wrote a history of Dunbar, and the 
Lamp of Lothian. Carlyle had associations with Haddington 
through his wife, Jane Welsh, whose grave is in the choir 
of Haddington Church. 

Three of the Scottish poets of the sixteenth century 



\ 



\ 




Jane Welsh Carlyle 

are claimed for East Lothian, with more or less probability. 
There seems no doubt in the case of William Dunbar, 
the greatest of the early Scottish writers, author of The 
Thistle and the Rose, celebrating the marriage of James IV 
and Margaret Tudor, of The Dance of the Seven Deadly 
Sins^ and of The Lament for the Makers. Gavin Douglas, 
third son of Archibald, Earl of Douglas, ^' Bell the Cat," 



108 EAST LOTHIAN 

may have been born in Tantallon and was Rector of 
Prestonkirk. Poet, politician and ecclesiastic, he was 
Bishop of Dunkeld, and, as translator of the Aene'td^ 

" in a barbarous age, 
He gave rude Scotland Virgil's page." 

Sir David Lyndsay, Lyon King-at-Arms, author of The 
Satire of the Three Estates^ was probably born in Garmylton 
(now Garleton) Tower. His poems did much to prepare 
for the Reformation and remained for two centuries the 
most popular reading in Scotland. 



24. THE CHIEF TOWNS AND VILLAGES 
OF EAST LOTHIAN. 

(The figures in brackets after each name give the population in 
191 1, and those at the end of each section are references 
to pages in the text.) 

Aberlady (pa. 963) is a small village on Aberlady Bay, near 
the mouth of the Peffer Burn. (pp. 33, 39, 43, 44, 51, 54, 55, 

74, 97, 100.) 

Athelstaneford (pa. 666) is a village consisting mostly of 
one broad street, on the east slope of the Garleton Hills. The 
village green has a monument to Blair, author of The Grwve. 
(pp. 100, 104, 106.) 

Belhaven is a small watering-place in Dunbar parish. 

(pp. 42, 44, SSy 61, 83.) 

Bolton (pa. 256) is a hamlet round the parish church. In 
the churchyard the mother, brother, and sister of Robert Burns 
lie buried, (p. 100.) 

Cockenzie and Port Seton (2400) form a combined 
police burgh in the parish of Tranent. The chief industries are 
fishing and coal-mining. Cockenzie is Gaelic, " Kenneth's nook." 
(PP- 30, 31, 33, 37, 38, 44, 62, 65, 66, 68, 69, 70.) 

Dirleton (pa. 2064), in Dirleton parish, is one of the most 
beautiful villages in Scotland, (pp. 33, 40, 51, ^6, 67, 91, 92, 98, 
100.) 



110 EAST LOTHIAN 

Drem, a village in Athelstaneford parish, is the railway 
junction for North Berwick, (pp. 55, 82, 98, 100.) 

Dunbar (3346), a royal burgh of David II, is a popular 
summer resort with bracing- air, a fine golf-course, and picturesque 
rocks. The handsome parish church contains the elaborate 
marble tomb of George Home, Earl of Dunbar, who was 
James VI's Lord High Treasurer, (pp. 2, 3, 10, 13, 16, 23, 24, 
28, 30, 42, 44, 46, s^i 58, 59, 61, 62, 67, 68, 69, 70, 71, 72, 73, 
74, 75, 89, 92, 97, 98, 99, 100, loi, 102, X07.) 

East Linton (877), a small police burgh in Prestonkirk 
parish is a busy and prosperous place, (pp. 3, 12, 14, 48, 54, 
^6, 58, 62, 67, 98, 100, loi.) 

Garvald (pa. 511) is a small village, hidden in a sheltered 
hollow. Close by is Nunraw, a beautifully restored modern 
representative of the ancient nunnery. The present drawing- 
room, once the refectory, has a ceiling of oak planks nailed to the 
joists. It is covered with paintings of quaint design, including 
animals and musical instruments. Part of the ceiling is in the 
National Museum of Antiquities, Edinburgh, the remainder is 
still in place. Although the date is the early sixteenth century, 
the colours are fresh and bright, (pp. 25, 55, 78, 80, 93, 97, 100.) 

Gifford is a pretty village in Yester parish. Yester Castle is 
renowned for its Goblin Hall, a cavern reputed to have been 
formed by magic art. Scott makes use of the tradition in Marmion^ 
Canto III. (pp. 23, 51, 61, 91, 97, 99, 100, 106.) 

Gladsmuir (pa. 1433) is a .small hamlet in Gladsmuir 
parish. Another is Penston, inhabited by colliers. Gladsmuir 
means the moor of the " gled " or hawk. (pp. ^,6^ 62, 100, 106.) 

Gullane, in Dirleton parish, is a popular summer-resort with 
famous golf-courses. Gullane was once a noted training-ground 
for racehorses, (pp. 30, 33, 40, 43, 51, 81, 85, 100.) 



CHIEF TOWNS AND VILLAGES 111 

Haddington (4140), the county town, is an ancient royal 
burgh and a fine example of mediaeval town-planning-, where 
everything was subservient to church and market. One of the 
leading grain markets in Scotland, it contains the largest Corn 
Exchange out of Edinburgh. The Knox Institute (1878), the 
successor of the old Grammar School, is a flourishing centre 
of higher education. In the High Street is the Town Hall with 
a spire 170 feet high. (pp. i, 27, 39, 48, 49, 55, 59, 61, 62, 67, 




Public School, Tranent 



71, 72, 73, 74, 76, 85, 86, 96, 97,98,99, 100, loi, 102, 104, 106, 
107.) 

Innerwick (pa. 676) is a pretty little village in Innerwick 
parish, in the extreme east of the county, (pp. 24, 44, ^^, 73, 83, 
99, IOO-) 

Longniddry, a village in Gladsmuir parish, is the railway 
junction for Haddington and Gullane. (pp. 62, 68.) 



112 



EAST LOTHIAN 



Macmerry, in Gladsmuir parish, is a village whose in- 
habitants work in the neighbouring collieries. The name may be 
Gaelic for "the merry or wanton one." (p. loo.) 

North Berwick (3247), an ancient royal burgh, is now 
a popular summer resort, delightfully situated, with fine sands 
and splendid golf-courses, excellent bathing and a healthy climate. 
Behind the town rises the green cone of the Law, with an extensive 




Whittinghame House 



prospect from its summit, while out of the sea in front towers the 
Bass Rock. (pp. 3, 30, 40, 44, s^y 62, 68, 69, 81, 97, 100, loi, 
102.) 

Oldhamstocks (pa. 404) is a small village in the east of 
the county near the Berwickshire border, (pp. 24, 27, loi.) 

Ormiston (pa. 1598) is a village in Ormiston parish, a mining 
and agricultural region. John Cockburn began his pioneer work 
in agriculture here; and Moffat the missionary was a native of 



CHIEF TOWNS AND VILLAGES 113 

the village, which has a monument to his memory. In the church 
is a brass with an inscription by George Buchanan commemorating 
his pupil Alexander Cockburn. (pp. 31, 56, 57, 61, 62, 67, 73, 
100, loi, 106.) 

Pencaitland (pa. 1273), a village in Pencaitland parish, has 
a fine old church and an ancient cross. The parish is rich in 
limestone and freestone, (pp. 14, 55, 56, 61, 62, 80, 88, loi.) 

Port Seton. See Cockenzie. 

Prestonpans (1923) is a burgh in the most densely peopled 
part of the county, with such industries as coal-mining, fire- 
clay-working, pottery, brewing, salt- and soap-making. The 
market gardens excel in producing cabbage and leek plants, and 
parsley, (pp. 3, 8, 11, 13, 31, 37, 43, 56, 58, 61, 62, 67, 68, 69, 
70, 76, 96, 97, 98, loi, 104, 106.) 

Salton or Saltoun. In the parish (386) there are two 
villages — East and West Salton. The parish church is at East 
Salton. (pp. 58, 76, loi, 105.) 

Tranent (4369) is an important burgh in a mining and 
agricultural region. Coal was mined here early in the thirteenth 
century at least. The large school has over a thousand pupils 
and is a Junior Student centre. The same parish contains the 
hamlets of Elphingstone and Meadowmill. (pp. 11, 31, S5y S^j 
64, 65, 67, 70, 74, 78, 98, loi, 106.) 

Tynninghame is a small village beautifully situated on 
a gentle slope near the Tyne. (pp. 15, 42, 60, 84, loi.) 

W^hitekirk is a hamlet with an ancient church, destroyed by 
fire in 19 14. The church was for several centuries a favourite 
place of pilgrimage. Its most distinguished pilgrim was Aeneas 
Silvius, afterwards Pope Pius II. (pp. 42, 79, 88, loi.) 

Whittinghame (pa. 523) is a hamlet in the parish of the 
same name. Whittinghame House is the home of Mr A. J. Balfour, 
(pp. 16, 61, 92, lOI.) 

M. E. L. 8 



114 



DIAGRAMS 



Scotland 
30,408 square miles 



East Lothian 
267 square miles 



Fig. I. Comparative areas of East Lothian and all Scotland 



Scotland 
4.759,445 



East Lothian, 
43,253 



Fig. 2. Comparison in Population of East Lothian and 
all Scotland 



• •eo e«eaee*9« 

• ••••oosoasse 




Scotland 157 Lanarkshire 1633 Sutherland 10 



East Lothian 162 

Fig. 3. Comparative density of Population to the 

square mile in 1911 

{Each dot represents ten persons) 



DIAGRAMS 



115 



I80I 


29,986 






I83I 


36,145 




I86I 


37,634 




I89I 


37,485 




I90I 


38,66s 




I9II 


43,253 



Fig. 4. Growth of Population in East Lothian 







! 






1 
si 




N 


VO 

(V, 
M 



1879 1889 1899 1909 
Fig. 5. Progressive output of Coal in East Lothian 



116 



DIAGRAMS 




Fig. 6. Proportionate area under Corn Crops compared 
with that of other land in East Lothian in 1912 




Fig. 7. Comparative areas under Cereals in East Lothian 
in igi2 



DIAGRAMS 



117 







Fig. 8. Comparative areas of land in East Lothian 
in 1912 




Fig. 9. Comparative numbers of different kinds of 
Live Stock in East Lothian in 1912 



CambriDge; 

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AT THE UNIVERSITY PRESS 



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3° U 

GEOLOGICAL MAP OF 
HADDINGTONSHIRE 

OR 

EAST LOTHIA>^ 




ZoDg. HT 3 " o/^ G7■een,^ 



Ln.e. LaJixbrlcLge Wiiversix\' Tre^ 




Cojiyri()hz ii.iiira^ I'hUip & ■: 



